Roe’s bowl

Peppered saddle of roe deer, thinly sliced and rolled out, sits on top of a tower of Ampleforth Abbey “Discovery” apples. The grated blushing pink-hued fruit brings a sharp taste, which is blended with our own aniseed-scented bulb fennel, while the dill grissini gives texture to the dish. Lovely flakes of succulent smoked rainbow trout surround the tower, making a very sophisticated summer starter, a salad or, in its own right, as a main course.

SERVES: FOUR / YOU WILL NEED

Ingredients: 400g venison loin; 5g crushed spices, eg. star anise, coriander seeds, etc; A little oil for frying; Seasoning; 4 tsp grain mustard; 100g mixed herbs, chopped; 200g smoked trout, cut into 1cm thick slices; A little lemon juice olive oil to finish.

For the Remoulade: 2 apples; 1 large bulb of fennel; 50g mayonnaise; A little lemon juice; Seasoning.

For the Grissini: 250g strong flour; 5g fresh yeast; ½ tsp salt; ¼ tsp sugar; A little olive oil; 30ml water; 1 bunch of dill, chopped.

To garnish:A few fresh herbs.

Method

Season the venison loin with salt, pepper and the crushed spices. Heat a large frying pan with a little oil, add the loin and gently brown off. Set aside and leave to cool, then coat with the mustard and roll in the herbs. Wrap in clingfilm. To make the remoulade, first peel and grate the apples, then trim and grate the fennel, adding a little lemon juice, to prevent it becoming brown. Season and mix in the mayonnaise to a fine “coleslaw” consistency.

For the grissini bread sticks, mix together the flour, yeast, salt, sugar and olive oil, then add a little water to mix to a dough.

Knead in some chopped dill, cover and leave to prove in a warm place for approximately 20 minutes. Once proved, roll out the dough and cut into thin sticks. Place on an oiled baking tray and cook at 180°C/Gas Mark 4 for 8 to 10 minutes, or until golden brown.

To plate, cut the venison into very thin slices. Spoon the remoulade into the centre of the plates and place the Carpaccio on top, then drizzle with a little lemon juice and olive oil, and season. Finish with the pieces of smoked trout, some of the grissini and the fresh herbs.

CHRISTINE AUSTIN RECOMMENDS

The hills of Tuscany are full of game and Albia Rosé 2010 is made in those hills by Chianti producer Ricasoli from Sangiovese grapes which capture ripe red fruit balanced by clean fresh acidity and a long, truffle edged finish (£9.99 Roberts and Speight, Beverley, 01482 870717). Alternatively, head for the soft, floral and pepper notes of Fleurie Domaine des Nugues 2009, Majestic £9.99.