A tale of Tokyo rosé

Japan has been growing grapes for centuries although the industry is still very small. The area under vines is about the same as that of Alsace and even then, not all the grapes are used for wine. The vines first arrived with travellers along the Silk Road more than 1,000 years ago, in the Yamanashi prefecture, south west of Tokyo, Japan’s main fruit growing region.

Cultivated mainly for their medicinal properties as grapes, it was only in the 16th century when missionaries arrived that a little wine was produced.

Eventually, in the late 1800s more vine varieties were introduced and a modest wine-making industry was established, but it wasn’t until the 1990s when the possible health benefits of wine drinking were discovered that the market for wine expanded. Now, sales of all kinds of wine are booming in Japan and wherever I travel to in the world of wine, Japanese sommeliers and merchants are there, researching from Beaune to Barossa, and learning about international wine.

Japanese vineyards have stocks of the usual international grape varieties but the most remarkable wine is made from its own, unique, indigenous grape, called Koshu (pronounced co-shoe). It belongs to the Vitis Vinifera family, so is a true wine-producing grape and is predominantly grown around the town of Katsunuma in the main grape production area of Yamanashi. Despite being on the same latitude as the Mediterranean this region is challenging for grapes.

Rainfall is high, particularly during the typhoon season in June and July and the high humidity leads to disease and rot. For that reason many of the vineyards are cultivated on a pergola system, which lifts the bunches high above the ground and into the breeze. Some producers even adorn their bunches of grapes with “hats” to keep the rain off.

But this pinkish-coloured grape variety is remarkable when made into wine. Crisp, clean, delicate and fragrant, it is the perfect match to Japanese cuisine.

A group of Koshu wine producers arrived in the UK a couple of weeks ago to show their wines and I was impressed by the progress that has been made since my last tasting. For a start, the focus was on quality, rather than on the undoubted history and traditions of Japan. And it had definitely improved. Flavours, while still delicate were more focused, with good aromatics and crisp, clean styles. The Koshu grape is always described as delicate and while this may be interpreted as lacking flavour, it actually has precision and balance which makes it a very good wine to enjoy with food. Think of the smoky, sometimes creamy elements of Pinot Grigio, with a hint of floral aromatics of Riesling, gently harmonised with a soft balanced finish and you have some idea of the flavour of this grape.

Having already tried Koshu wine with a range of Japanese dishes, I was delighted to see a different kind of menu for this next food and Koshu wine matching. First on the plate was smoked eel with fresh cucumber spaghetti and a horseradish cream. Despite the strong flavours in the eel and horseradish, the crisp, aromatic style of 2011 Rubaiyat Koshu seemed to highlight the food rather than dominate. With octopus and potato on a skewer with pomegranate and chill there was a creamy note in 2011 Chateau Mercian Koshu that balanced both spice and sweetness.

Moving through a menu that included a creamy fish pie, delicious with 2012 Katsunuma Jozo Aruga Koshu and navarin of lamb, which showed well with 2012 Haramo Koshu it was clear these wines can match western cuisine as well as that of Japan. There was even a sparkling wine, made in the traditional bottle-fermented way, 2010 Lumiere Winery Petillant which lacked the yeasty style of champagne but still managed to have a delicious balance of fruit, acid and clean minerality. Duck rolls with hoisin sauce and marinated salmon with honey, soy and spice completed the tasting and even these managed to find matches amongst the assembled Koshu wines.

Much investment is clearly going into Yamanashi prefecture vineyards. Ayana Misawa, winemaker at Grace Vineyards where they are already selling wine to the UK said: “We have vineyards at different locations, all at fairly high altitude, where we can experiment with different soil types and we have been changing our pruning to increase quality.” This winemaker may, at present make only small amounts of wine but she has studied in Bordeaux and has a winemaking CV that many would envy. With experience in New Zealand, South Africa, and Argentina, it is clear that this Koshu winemaker has the know-how to develop her wines to their potential.

Wines from Grace Vineyards are already in London (£18.95, Selfridges for Grace Koshu Kayagatake) and Koshu wines are available in Manchester (Hanging Ditch has Katsunuma Koshu Hishijama Private Reserve 2011, £25). They will reach this region soon, first in up-market restaurants, particularly those with Asian cuisine, but they will not be at the bargain end of the list.

The way these wines are made and their sheer scarcity makes them destined for a top-class Japanese restaurants and independent wine shops. When you next decide on sushi for dinner, then perhaps it will be time to try out a Japanese Koshu wine just for the experience.

Koshu wine are naturally quite low in alcohol, which makes them light, refreshing and food friendly.