The taste of tango

The war with Argentina had been over for a long time but for the wine producers at least, there seemed a need to mention it.

Over an early morning cup of coffee, I was asked whether I thought that memories of the war would stop people buying Argentine wines.

So long after the conflict, I thought that unlikely, especially since the key political figures from both sides had long since disappeared from office.

However, there was another major incident which still rankled with UK drinkers. Maradona's Hand of God goal at the World Cup took a long time for us to forget, but even that eventually faded.

So what, said one producer, was the image of Argentina in the UK?

At the time, the answer was nothing. Despite their recent history and rgimes, we had no clear picture of Argentina to attach to their wines.

The field was wide open for the marketing people to create an image, and they came up with tango – not the orange drink, but the dance.

Hanging a country's image around a dance in the days long before Strictly Come Dancing returned to our screens, was a precarious idea, but the Argentines swung into action.

Every journalist who went to Argentina took in at least one tango show and some of us even had a lesson in this sexy, difficult, Latin dance.

We were all walked along Calle Florida, the main shopping street of Buenos Aires to hear the music being played, and we strolled through La Boca, the neighbourhood where people of all ages gather and dance, not in an organised way, but for fun, with spontaneity and style.

The image of Argentina started to be created – fun, sophisticated, dynamic. Bolt this on to the stunning scenery of the Andes and add deep-flavoured, well-priced wines, and you have a complete marketing package which has won over the UK drinking public.

Last year, we drank more than two million cases of Argentine wine, becoming their second largest export market, worth about 30m and providing employment for a whole region of people.

Will this come crashing down if the gunboats go in? Quite probably, but until it all happens, these are the good wines coming out of Argentina.

Malbec is Argentina's flagship red grape variety. Full of juicy, plummy flavours, it can vary from simple blueberry and damson fruit to complex, pepper-dusted prunes, depending on vineyard location and yields.

It is grown from the northern heights of Salta down to the edge of Patagonia, creating a characteristic style that can be recognised the world over.

At the value end of the range, wines from Familia Zuccardi are hard to beat. FuZion Shiraz Malbec 2009 has only 30 per cent of Malbec, adding weight to the cherry, raspberry fruit of young Shiraz, but at 4.99 (Waitrose) it is a refreshing, soft-edged style of wine that is just made to drink with any kind of supper from Monday to Thursday.

Moving up the quality ladder, it is worth investigating Majestic where their whole Argentine range is on special offer.

Head for the Malbec-dominated blend of Amalaya de Colom 2008 (Majestic 6.99 on multibuy) which comes from one of the highest vineyards in the world, in Salta.

With the top-rated vineyards at a chilling 3,000 metres, this wine has a purity of fruit which is unusual in Argentina, dusted with peppery spice and a silky set of tannins. Elegant for its price, it benefits from a little swirling in the glass before sipping.

Deeper, richer and almost chewy with cherry fruit, integrated oak and ripe, structuring tannins, Vialba Reserve Malbec 2007 (Majestic 8.99 on multibuy) is a sophisticated wine that will accompany a rib of beef or a warming casserole.

Made by Herv and Diane Joyaux Fabre, who swapped their life in France for a beautiful wine estate in the lee of the snow-capped Andes, this is 99 per cent Argentinian in style, with just a nod towards the structure of France.

Marks & Spencer has lighter, but still very good wines from the same company under the name Vialta. Try the Malbec 2008 at a bargain 5.49.

If you really want to taste what Argentinian Malbec is all about, head to Halifax Wine (www.halifaxwinecompany.com) where Alpha Crux 2005 (20.45) from O Fournier is on the shelves.

This forward-looking producer uses old vines to create a wine with sweet, fat, plum and cherry fruit, layered with chocolate and tobacco, ending with a backbone of ripe supple tannin. It is as complex and as sexy as a well-danced tango.

Argentina is more than just a one-trick pony, with blends of Cabernet, Tempranillo and even Pinot Noir starting to feature on the shelves, but it also produces some excellent whites.

Torronts is the signature white variety, producing light, spring-fresh, lightly aromatic wines. It tastes like a cross between Muscat and Gewurztraminer, but is altogether more refreshing than either of them.

Wait until the daffodils are bobbing their heads in sunshine and you will enjoy the scent of white blossom and the taste of clean citrus fruit, all perfectly tuned to accompany the lighter flavours of spring.

Marks & Spencer has the crisp, lively La Esperanza Torronts 2008 (5.99) from the high-altitude vineyards of Lavaque in Salta, while Waitrose has the fuller, rounder flavours of Fairtrade Tilimuqui Single Vineyard Torronts 2009 (down to 4.99 until March 16).

Susanna Balbo is one of Argentina's best winemakers, and her Crios de Susanna Balbo Torronts 2009 (Majestic 6.99 multibuy) gathers up tangy lime, white peach and pear notes in a refreshing, fragrant wine.

Among the rest of the whites, try Vialta Chardonnay 2008 (5.49 Marks and Spencer) which comes with the same pedigree as the Vialta red and captures lively apple fruit with a touch of herbs and no oak clouding the palate.

Trade up to Alpataco Chardonnay 2007 from Familia Schroeder (7.99 Waitrose) from the deep south of Patagonia where part barrel-fermentation provides a creamy note among the lemon and

lime fruit.