Tesco put to the test

They buy on such a huge scale that they can shave prices keenly, but their grading of stores means that they can focus small parcels of top wines into their flagship stores. They have a mail-order service which offers most of the regular in-store wines plus interesting parcels garnered from elsewhere.

Tesco is green too. Their work on promoting a new lightweight glass bottle won them the Green Retailer of the Year from a major drinks magazine. In short, they are Britain's most successful wine retailer; so why is it that my heart sinks when I brave

their aisles?

I think it is the length of the shelves, the endless facings of similar bottles, the gaping holes whenever there is a special offer on, and the end of aisle gondolas where the old "stack 'em high, sell it cheap" principle still applies.

Tesco Finest range bucks the "sell it cheap" principle, because these are wines that are definitely own-label, but they are, in general, rather good. Selected from key regions from around the world, they provide reliable, decent flavours that hit the right price/quality balance.

Now Tesco has decided that they want to sell more of this brand, and the reasons are obvious. If they can move their customers away from the special offers and into the Finest category, then they will make more money (their profits last year were 3bn).

At their tasting last week they put dozens of their Finest wines among the 100 plus line-up. This is how they fared in the tasting. Among the whites I particularly enjoyed Tesco Finest White Burgundy 2008 at 6.98. It comes from the very respectable co-op in Buxy and is aged in French oak for six months to add a sheen to the flavours. It has soft, white peachy notes and good citrus balance with a streak of minerality across the palate. For under 7 it is terrific value. But tasted alongside Louis Jadot Bourgogne Chardonnay 2007 (listed at 10.20) it did not have the weight, elegance or finish of the more expensive wine.

However, rustling through Tesco's offer list, I notice that the Jadot wine is on offer for a few weeks, down from 10.20 to two bottles for 15 until April 6. Clearly the Jadot wine is a much better deal if you buy it on offer, and while it does not appear in all stores, you could buy it on-line at Tesco.com/ wine.

I got the same kind of impression with the New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs. The Tesco Finest Marlborough Sauvignon 2009 at 7.99 was a terrific wine. Fresh-tasting and lively without the streak of green peppers which can spoil some Kiwi whites, but alongside the Villa Maria Cellar Selection Sauvignon 2009 (10.21) it paled in comparison. The Villa wine has more depth, with green, crisp, nettley fruit and a lovely stony finish. There are no current offers on the Villa Maria wine, and it is in very limited distribution, so the chances are that most people will pick up a bottle of the Finest and be reasonably happy with it. Don't get me wrong, I like the Tesco Finest range. They offer good, above-average flavours at good, above-average prices. Prices seem to be set to allow for a 1 or so to come off on special offer, but even at full price, the buying power of Tesco and the fact there is no marketing budget on own-label wines, means that these wines do provide value for money.

Check out Tesco Finest Gavi 2008 (6.99) from Piedmont in Italy. Notoriously difficult to find at reasonable quality and freshness, this version has delicate, elegant white blossom aromas and stone fruit and white currant flavours. It is an excellent food wine, and at this price, good value. A new addition to the shelves is Tesco Finest Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (7.49) which comes from Cono Sur in Chile. Made by Adolfo Hurtado, this is typical of his wines, with bright, lively fruit, clean zingy freshness – and organic too.

The reds at the Tesco tasting were also showing well. Finest Nero d'Avola 2008 (6.49) is a favourite, offering deep damson and chocolate flavours with soft, supple tannins that make it perfect to pour alongside a plate of pasta or grilled meat. I was impressed by the Finest Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2006 (6.98) for its cherry fruit backed by meaty, evolved flavours and lean, chalky tannins and by the Argentine Finest Malbec 2008 (6.98) for its deep bramble fruit and lush, full-bodied style.

Outside the Finest own-label range Tesco has the buying power and the shelf space to offer a complete range from some of the world's best producers, and in some cases it does, but often they are only in the top 100 stores which means that you have to travel to the big all-night opening Extra stores around the region.

Look for Tim Adams Clare Valley Riesling 2008 (9.19) which is already showing the lean, minerally, petrolly complexity that will evolve over the next few years. Try the delicate, ros-petal perfumed fruit of Domaine de Belouv Bandol Ros 2008 (11.99) and the sheer exuberance and earth-dusted raspberry fruit of Stockman's Station Pinot Noir from Central Otago 2007 (13.99).

Highlights which are actually in mainstream stores include the strawberry and truffle flavours of Gran Conti Rosso Biferno Molise Riserva 2005 (9.99) from Italy and the simply delicious crme brle-soaked flavours of Concha y Toro Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (5.99 for a half bottle).

If Tesco roll out even more of their Finest wines there is a chance that some of the smaller stores will be dominated by a two tier system – the standard

own-labels and their Finest range.

While I am sure this would suit Tesco very well, it eventually means less choice for customers.

Tesco has some good wines on the shelves, but their share of the market

is probably big enough now. It might be time to spend some of your

money elsewhere, just to keep Tesco on their toes.