Top of the table

Ecclesall Road has never been short of eateries. As teenagers in the early ’70s, we’d head for Uncle Sam’s for burgers; as we got a bit older (and, we liked to think, more sophisticated) Ashoka was the curry house of choice.

These days, chuck a brick and you’ll hit a bistro, bar, sandwich joint or cupcake shop. So you might think that opening yet another would be folly. Well, think again.

Kitchen is easily missed – its frontage is modest and squashed in a row of shops just below Napoleon’s Casino. Despite the constant buzz of traffic at Hunters Bar, all is peaceful here, apart from low-level John Martyn, from which we could all benefit now and again.

The floors are polished oak, furniture is functional and Farrow & Balled walls are hung with stunning black and white images of the city by local photographer Sue Carter.

There’s a floor-to-ceiling picture window at the street end; a great place to people watch.

Of late, I’ve been longing to find somewhere with a stripped-down menu and simple presentation, a chef who’s stepped away from the slicks, dots and jus school of cooking, and – hooray – I’ve found one.

John Parsons is a young man with a finely-tuned skillset, and he’s not afraid to show us. His dishes are exactly described and executed without faff. And delicious.

I don’t order fishcake these days, I’ve had so many and they rarely come up to scratch; however, watching one arrive at the next table I go off piste.

The golden crunchy coat cracks open to the touch, it’s freighted with fish, just the right amount of spud, and well seasoned. The accompanying free-range egg oozes beautifully, the hollandaise is velvety sweet – an impressive start.

I would happily have tucked in to any of the three other starters ordered by my neighbours (four glossy, sassy lunching ladies) which include Masala prawns, mango relish, cucumber yoghurt and coarse chicken paté, roasted plums, port syrup, garlic flutes to name but two. They were all delighted. I asked.

They do this great thing at lunchtime; one menu has dishes coming in at between £6-£8, and size-wise between starter and main course (greedy pigs can opt for the full-on main, too).

Pork loin, black pudding, roast apple (£8) is possibly one of the most perfect plates of food I’ve had this year.

Tender, sweet meat, served fanned out over warm, crumbled black pudding, the smoothest apple sauce and, joy of joys, a little brown jug full of fabulously rich gravy; the whole seething with flavour.

I liked the look, too, of cod with ham, pea purée, parmesan and garlic jelly (pushing the boat out at £16).

By now I’m wishing I hadn’t had breakfast and that I had at least one other dining companion.

As it is, I have to force a pudding on myself. Rhubarb and pear pie. As Peter Kay would say; two words. Fan tastic.

Next table are tucking into Paris Brest, Crème Chiboust, raspberry compote and sticky toffee pudding, toffee sauce. By now they’re happily running a commentary for me on everything that comes to the table.

We leave firm friends.

This is accomplished cooking, quietly creative, nothing cheffy or flash. Service is calm, friendly and unobtrusive.

There’s a kind of subtle energy underpinning the vibe here, a sense that they know what they’re doing, don’t worry, you’re in safe hands, relax and enjoy.

Kitchen is my new benchmark as to how good a place can be.

House wine £12.75. Starters from £5. Mains from £8. Desserts £4.

762 Ecclesall Road, Sheffield S11 8TB0114 267 1351 www.sheffieldkitchen.com

Closed Monday/Tuesday. Wednesday Thursday noon-3pm, dinner 6.30pm-9pm; Friday Saturday 1-3pm, dinner 6pm-9pm.