Trulli, madly, deeply

There is one sure way of avoiding a local tax on your house and that is to pretend that it doesn't exist. Several hundred years ago that is what the population of the picturesque village of Alberobello deep in the south of Italy did, constructing their circular houses of local stones, piled one on top of each other without mortar and when a tax inspector was in the area they simply lifted the stones from the roof.

These days the "trulli" houses of Puglia are a major tourist attraction and their distinctive construction, with tall conical roofs, often painted with strange astrological symbols, give the region a unique, historic appearance.

Now they are in demand as shops and holiday homes but their rightful place is in the corner of a vineyard, where a worker would live with his family, tending the vines.

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The region of Puglia is the last stretch of land on the Adriatic coastline which eventually forms the heel of Italy.

It is a convenient stopping point for seafarers and in ancient times settlers came from all around the Mediterranean and colonised the land. They brought with them their culture, their architecture and their vines, so the region has a different feel from the rest of Italy.

In some villages you could be in Greece, while there is a distinct North African touch in some of the towns. Wine growing has been a key activity here for 4,000 years and ancient wine amphorae have been found in the area.

But these days the wines are definitely Italian. Made from grape varieties which are accustomed to the summer heat and winter rain, they are responsible for a massive proportion of Italy's total wine production.

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In past years these strong-flavoured wines would make the journey

north to add weight and structure to more insipid wines, but a revolution has been taking place in the south and now the wines have developed a reputation and character all of their own.

This is essentially red wine country, although there are some good whites and ross and even a flourishing sparkling wine industry. The grape varieties have unfamiliar names such as Uva di Troia, Negroamaro, Primitivo and Malvasia Nera, and their flavours are deep, chunky and bold, although when handled carefully they can manage to be more elegant and restrained. There is also a developing interest in rescuing some of the ancient grapes of the region, discovering small plots of old vines, taking cuttings and propagating them, reviving varieties such as Sussumaniello and Ottavianello, both of which are unknown outside the region.

Puglia divides into three main regions. There are the fertile plains of the north, the rocky soils of the central section and the baking heat of the Salento peninsula. All parts of the region have problems with a lack of water in the summer although the winters can be cold and wet, but clever ploughing techniques are used to create a crust of soil which stops it drying out completely even in the long summer heat.

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It is the Primitivo grape which has really set out to make a modern name for the region. Linked genetically to California's Zinfandel and to an old variety from Croatia, its name derives from its habit of ripening early.

It is often grown in the old style, as a bush rather than trained on wires, and this arid country, where water is a valuable commodity, is often un-irrigated, which means that the vine's roots need to go down deep to survive. The result is deep, fruity complexity and ripe tannins.

For a good value taste of the region head first to Marks and Spencer for their Rosso di Puglia 2008 (4.99) which is based around the Primitivo grape and is full of ripe juicy fruit and lush, soft tannins. This is a wine to accompany any weeknight supper of pasta and pizza. Canaletto Primitivo 2008 (Waitrose 5.99) is also robust with damson fruit and a touch of oak adding complexity, while Da Luca Primitivo Merlot blend from Tarantino (6.49 Waitrose) has soft lush raspberry notes combined with generous, full-flavoured red berry fruit.

For a distinct step up in quality, A Mano Primitivo 2007 (Field and Fawcett 01904 489073) has more concentration, a distinct note of herb-dusted chocolate on the nose, with layers of dark plums, supple tannins, and on the finish, a wild, funky note that tells you this is from southern Italy.

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How local grape variety Negroamaro got its name is difficult to say. It is possible that it derives from the combination of Negra meaning black and Amaro meaning bitter and certainly this grape does have a deep, dark colour and some bitter notes, although modern winemaking has turned these into rich spicy tones.

The other derivation may be less dramatic, just combining the deep colour with its possible Greek heritage, Mavro. Either way, Negroamaro is a grape with rich, spice-laden fruit, which goes wonderfully with the robust flavours of Italian food.

Seek this out in Salice Salentino which is Puglia's most productive and easily found DOC wine. Waitrose has the good-value Mezzomondo Negroamaro 2008 (4.99) with rounded savoury fruit and just a simple layer of oak which is certainly good enough for Friday night suppers and weekend lunches.

I also like the wines from Candido, a large company which manages to combine the traditional taste of the region with modern, clean, reliable winemaking. The result is a well-made range of wines which pop up in supermarkets and wine shops giving good value, lively flavours. Try Satiri 2005, a Riserva quality wine (Majestic 8.49) made mainly from Negroamaro, with just a splash of Malvasia Nera adding aromatic notes to the black fruit, cocoa and leathery notes. This is a serious wine to be teamed up with grilled meat straight off the barbecue, with spiced sausages and richly flavoured casseroles.

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Also well worth a try are the wines from Tormaresca which is Antinori's venture in the region. With 350 hectares of vines

and a fabulous, modern winery, the Negroamaro-based Masseria Maine and the blended NePriCa which combines Negroamaro, Primitivo and Cabernet are well worth tasting. These wines are still in short supply but can be found on some specialist restaurant lists.

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