Voyage of discovery

He took with him a letter of recommendation to a wine merchant and he must have done quite well in the job because in 1811 he established his own business – Blandy’s. Two centuries later the company is still owned and run by John Blandy’s descendents and with Chris Blandy now at the helm, it has celebrated its bicentennial by deciding to expand into vineyard ownership.

Madeira lacks rolling hills and vast expanses of land to plant vineyards. Instead tiny patches have been carved out from steep cliffs, creating a patchwork of terraces. Grapes grow well here, in particular Sercial, Verdelho, Terrantez, Bual (a variety of Malvasia) and Malvasia, but the vast majority of grapes are Tinta Negra Mole, a red grape which grows prolifically and which, when made into wine, can masquerade as any of the noble varieties. Tinta Negra was planted after phylloxera wiped out most of the island’s vineyards and it became popular because of its disease resistance and ability to produce high yields. Now membership of the EU means Madeira must use the correct grapes in any wines described by their grape variety and so there is pressure to plant more of the noble grapes, hence the hunt for vineyards.

Madeira wine has been the stuff of sniggers for so long it is surprising to learn that sales of the good wines are increasing. The great thing about this wine is that it ages – not just for a few years but for centuries. During visits to the island I have tasted wines going back to the early 1800’s – in one case there wasn’t a date on the bottle, but since it had been taken out of cask in 1927, where it had probably been aging for decades, there is a chance it was one of the early Blandy wines. This gem was still vibrant with flavour – powerful, chocolatey with shades of smoke, burnt coffee beans and toasted honeycomb. The taste was intense, searing, smooth and lasted on the palate for ages. Madeira is probably the only wine that could last that long, because of the way it is aged during production.

The island has been a calling point for ships since it was discovered in the 14th century. It is conveniently located 400 miles out in the Atlantic, off the coast of Morocco on the natural sea route that sailing ships used between Europe and America. Its sheltered harbour in Funchal provided a safe place to trade and to re-stock with food and wine.

Local wine was taken on board and to ensure it reached its destination in good condition, merchants added a bucket of brandy to each cask. The odd thing was that the wine often tasted better when it arrived than it did in Madeira and this started the most bizarre period in any wine’s life. Casks of Madeira wine were sent on long journeys to aid maturation, sometimes to India and back, after which they were known as Vinho da Roda and were sold with the name of the ship they had travelled on to authenticate the quality of the wine. Eventually someone had the bright idea of leaving the wine in one place and maturing it in conditions which mimicked the slow rise and fall in temperature experienced by the wine on a long journey.

Those heated lodges are still there in Funchal – several storeys high and each floor slightly hotter as you climb the stairs. The taste of Madeira depends on its grape variety and age. Sercial is the driest and the wines climb in sweetness through Verdelho, Bual (also known as Boal) and Malmsey, gaining depth and complexity on the way. Although a Sercial is not as dry as a fino sherry, it is a great aperitif, served chilled with salted nuts and canapés. I also enjoyed a chilled glass of Verdelho as an afternoon palate-reviver. Bual is a great after-dinner wine, with notes of honey, toffee and figs, while Malmsey is a rich, complex wine.

If you haven’t tried a Madeira before, don’t just buy the cheapest bottle you can find. The real quality of Madeira is linked to the way it is produced, so spend enough to get a good wine and I suggest a five-year-old is the best place to start. Blandy’s Alvada is a blend of Bual and Malmsey, cask-aged and it has layers of stewed fruit, figs and a distinct streak of orange marmalade (£12.92, Penistone Wine Cellars, 01226 766037).

A 10-year-old wine offers more layers of flavour. Try Blandy’s 10-year-old Sercial (£18.50, Halifax Wine Co) for bright, nutty flavours, with a touch of spice and a refreshing finish. A fairly new style of Madeira is Colheita which is a vintage wine, bottled after spending at least seven years in oak casks. These wines offer a surprising level of complexity at moderate prices. Head for Verdelho 2000 Colheita (£24.95, 50cl, Halifax) for hazelnut and grilled cheese notes, sprinkled with a gentle toasty sweetness. Try this lightly chilled, with cheesey nibbles for a pre-prandial sensation. For fabulous after-dinner drinking try Boal 1991 Colheita (£36.50, 50cl, Halifax) which combines glorious burnt orange and toffee notes with fig-biscuits. If you really want a taste of history, then The Halifax Wine Co, (01422 256333, www.halifaxwinecompany.com) which specialises in Madeira wines, has very limited stock of 1920 Blandy’s Bual (a snip at £346).

This was the highlight of the tasting with fabulous complexity of raisiny fruit, toasted nuts, smoky bacon and figs, all backed by vibrant, freshness that kept the flavours reverberating across my tastebuds all evening.