Well worth the wait

There's said to be a "Waitrose effect" in a neighbourhood where a new store springs up, causing house prices to rise, empty shops to be let and a general feel-good factor.

Whether this really happens or not, one of the best things about a Waitrose moving into the region is that it brings a whole new range of wines within reach. They have been available through the mail order site (www.waitrosewine. com) but there is nothing quite like perusing the shelves yourself to find something new for dinner.

Waitrose has an individual range of wines, chosen for quality first and price a definite second. That doesn't mean they are expensive, it's rather that the buyers don't bother to scrape the bottom of the barrel, preferring to offer good wines at a fair price. Waitrose eschews the "half price" offer whereby a bottle goes on the shelf at an unrealistically high price, just so that it can be knocked down to half that the following week.

There are regular offers, usually with significant savings of 1 or 2, sometimes 4 for champagne and I will flag the best offers as they happen. Some wines don't go on promotion at all. This is reassuring, it means that you always get good value and you don't have to buy your wines at a time to suit some marketing man's sales targets.

So with a new range of wines to try, where should you start? Two weeks ago I tasted through 300 of Waitrose's wines, and even that marathon session only covered a fraction of the range. Here are a dozen to try.

Under 6

Gran Lopez Airn/Sauvignon Blanc 2009, La Mancha Spain, 4.79

Tasted twice in a week and each time this wine impressed for its sheer value for money and its crisp, lightly aromatic, citrus and pears fruit.

Cowrie Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2010, New Zealand 5.49

UK bottled to save on energy costs, so you get a wine worth more than its price suggests. The quality of bulk shipping these days is so good that for everyday drinking there is no reason to ship bottles halfway round the world. Crisp, zesty and lively, with green, gooseberry freshness, this is a good aperitif wine or it can accompany goat's cheese, fish and salads.

Virtue Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Chile, 4.29

There are seven wines under the Virtue label, sourced from Chile, Australia and California. They are truly virtuous since they come with ecological credentials as well as good flavours. Again shipped in bulk to the UK, the wine is bottled in lightweight glass and packaged in recycled boxes. You get soft easy red fruit flavours at a great value price.

Good Ordinary Claret 2009, Bordeaux, 4.29

Don't let the name put you off, even if it does make you think of stuffy red-faced colonels enjoying lunch. It is rather better than ordinary, targeting the soft and supple end of the Bordeaux taste spectrum, with a decent amount of fruit and silky tannins. Decant it and it could pass for something worth at least another 2.50 more.

Between 6 and 10

Domaine Flines 2009, Picpoul de Pinet, France 7.49

The name Picpoul means "lip stinger" and refers to the crisp, zesty character of the grape, but there is more than acidity here. It has a nutty, mineral character which balances the citrusy fruit and provides texture, weight and style. Good with grilled fish.

Via Collina Falanghina 2009, Puglia, 7.99

An ancient Italian grape variety, now revitalised and planted in Puglia where it makes mildly aromatic wines with a soft, almost greengage fruit character. Refreshing but not aggressively so.

Perrin et Fils Les Cornuds 2009 Vinsobres, Rhne 9.99

Just squeezing into this price category but worth every penny, this is a fabulous autumn-into-winter red wine with soft, sweet, dark berry fruit, a touch of spice and a juicy, plummy finish. Not certified organic but well on its way to being so.

Waitrose in Partnership Chianti Classico, Barone Ricasoli 2008,

Tuscany, 9.99

One of the premium wines made to a Waitrose specification by benchmark producers in key areas. Barone Ricasoli makes delicious Chianti and this one has all the right sour cherry, autumn undergrowth and truffly notes with smooth, elegant tannins.

10 and more

Rustenberg Chardonnay 2009, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 11.49

Good to see wine of this quality on a supermarket shelf. It has ripe melon fruit, backed by a streak of good minerally acidity and just enough oak to show that this is a serious foodie wine.

Henschke Henry's Seven Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvdre 2007, Barossa, Australia 18.99

A real treat of a wine with deep, concentrated spice-dusted plummy fruit and layers of complexity that develop and extend on the palate. A white tablecloth wine, enjoy with lamb or beef.

Sherry and Port

Waitrose Solera Jerezana Fino del Puerto Lustau Sherry, 8.19

Waitrose has a splendid range of sherries, mostly sourced from top producer Lustau. Try this elegant fino, with its nutty, yeasty character and fine persistent finish. Team it with nuts, jamn, fish and even sushi.

Waitrose Late-bottled Vintage Port, 2005 9.79

This comes from the Symington family, who make fabulous ports under the Graham's, Dows and Warre's names. This one is stacked full of rich, dark fruits with figs and chocolate making an appearance on the finish. Delicious stuff for a cold winter evening.