The White Hart Inn, Pool in Wharfedale

We tried to book a table for two on a Wednesday evening at 8pm but there was no table free until 9. This speaks volumes for the popularity of this gastro pub, close to the River Wharfe in busy Pool in Wharfedale.

Since it's on the main route between Ilkley and Harewood, it may well attract passing trade, but the pub's growing reputation for good quality food at an affordable price is obviously having a positive effect. The large car park was almost full when we arrived and most tables inside were taken by a range of diners, young and not so young, groups and couples; there seemed little evidence of an economic recession here. Inside, the inn is much larger than it seems from the outside. You are welcome to pop in just for a drink and to read the paper, treating it like the village local, but on the evening we visited almost everyone there was eating a meal and it certainly feels more like a restaurant than a pub. There are several rooms – some with large open spaces for bigger parties, others with alcoves for more intimate dining.

There is an appealing mix of furniture with leather sofas, comfy armchairs, upholstered banquettes and chunky wooden tables and chairs. Down-lighters and spotlights, together with candles on the tables, provide a subtle ambience alongside the modern, unfussy decor. Tasteful contemporary art pieces adorn the walls. We ordered a South African Chenin Blanc which was light, refreshing and aromatic. At 14.50 it was the cheapest white wine available on the wine menu and it was a little surprising to find that many of the wines, including ross, cost around 20 a bottle or more. That said, our bill amounted to under 30 per person for a three-course meal, with wine and coffee, which didn't feel extravagant or overpriced. A slight grumble was that the wine was not chilled enough when it arrived, but the ice bucket it came in soon remedied that.

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Dishes at the White Hart feature traditional English food with a twist, as well as a range of Mediterranean-influenced choices. Bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar dip was served as a complimentary offering as we scanned the extensive menu. A starter of soup of the day, one of the chef's daily specials, was cream of fennel and curried potato soup. A generous bowlful, it was rich, creamy, with delicate curry flavours, and piping hot. At 3.95, it was the cheapest of the starters which range in price from shared plates of rustic bread at the same price to 7.95 for prawns or scallops, or 15.95 for a shared board of stone baked pizza slices. A starter of devilled mushrooms, chilli and mint on rustic toast, 5.55, was excellent. The mushrooms were cooked to exactly the right consistency – firm with a good bite. The chilli added a kick but was not too hot. The combination of chilli and mint actually worked very well; surprisingly these two strong flavours complemented each other to create an interesting

taste sensation.

Main courses comprise "leaves" (salads to you and me), pastas, pizzas or hot dishes cooked in the stove, on a grill or on a rotisserie. Some of the salads and pastas are sensibly available as starter or main course portions and you are not discouraged from having two starter-sized dishes as your meal for the evening.

A starter-sized portion of one of the "leaves" options – four tomato, boccacini, almond and chilli pesto, rocket and croutons – was delicious, beautifully presented and perfectly adequate as a main course. The tomato included a very tasty fried green variety with slices of the more traditional red tomato and plum tomato, all mixed together with peppery rocket leaves, covered in almond and chilli pesto and topped off with crunchy croutons. The "boccacini" liberally scattered among the leaves and tomatoes were delicious little bite-sized balls of mozzarella cheese.

The spit honey gammon ham with creamed potatoes and truffle sauce had spinach draped neatly over the meat on top of the mashed potato bed – an elegant arrangement, equally appealing to the eye as well as the tastebuds. This was a gratifying plateful – the meat crumbling and sweet, the potato moist and well seasoned, the spinach firm

and unwatery.

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For dessert we chose the apple and frangipane galette with cognac ice cream and the more traditionally English apple and blackcurrant crumble with vanilla ice cream. The galette was more like a stuffed waffle than the expected crepe or pancake but those with a sweet tooth will not mind the interpretation. The cognac in the ice cream creates a delicate chocolate-like flavour, making an appealing accompaniment. The apple and blackcurrant crumble with custard was excellent – with generous pieces of fruit and a good crunchy crumble. The extra indulgence of a shared glass of Torres Moscatel Oro pudding wine was worth the 3.70 for a sizeable glass.

Having started our meal fairly late we did become aware of a sense of urgency as we approached 11pm, the time when the midweek licence stipulated no more drinks could be served. Our coffee arrived more swiftly than we might have liked, though this is not a criticism of the waiting staff who, young, attentive and very professional, had generally added to the pleasure of the evening. Our three course meal for two with wine and coffee came to a very reasonable 59.40 (excluding service).

The White Hart Inn, Main Street, Pool in Wharfedale, Otley, LS21 1LH.

Tel 0113 2037862. www.thewhitehartpool.co.uk

Open Monday to Sunday from 11am; dining room from noon. Last orders for food are 10pm Monday to Thursday and Sunday and 10.30pm Friday

and Saturday.

YP MAG 11/9/10

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