Blooming lovely

The sweet scent of a myriad of spring bulbs fills the air, with an aroma that takes your breath away. Stepping into the Villa Flora is like entering another world – one filled with thousands of plants, from the familiar to the exotic, strange to beautiful and large to small – all encased in a huge glass building. An enchanting, giant greenhouse.

It forms part of Floriade 2012, the World Horticultural Expo, so vast and special that it only takes place once every 10 years. No wonder it’s one of Holland’s top events. This floral extravaganza is a unique celebration of nature and, like bees to nectar, people flock in their droves from all over the world to attend. Two million are expected to visit this year’s event, which started in April and runs until October near Venlo in northern Limburg, close to the German border.

The region has good transport links, both by rail and road, and though the Floriade itself is reason enough to visit, this southern-most province of the Netherlands is largely unspoilt and relatively undiscovered by tourists – ideal for an extended break.

The Floriade site is so vast (a giant park covering 66 hectares, or just over 163 acres, has been created especially) that a day is probably not enough to see everything. So plan ahead by checking out the website or taking time to peruse a map before heading off. For a bird’s eye view of the park, take the cable car that whisks you from one side to the other in five minutes. From this lofty position, you can get your bearings for the day ahead.

Before arriving, I learn that the theme for Floriade 2012 is: “Be part of the theatre of nature!” And it is a theatrical experience – not just for the eyes but for all the senses, from the gorgeous aromas, to the endless seas of colour, and the variety of textures I am greeted with. The theme is reflected throughout the park’s five zones – relax and heal, green engine (where the Villa Flora can be found), education and innovation, environment and the world show stage.

Each features displays and creations representing different corners of the world. You can watch the craftsmen at work, too. Be sure to take some spare euros with you, as there’s an array of things to buy, from exquisite pieces of furniture and embroidered cushions to fabulous and affordable, jewellery. I couldn’t resist a bangle from Ecuador.

Of course, the plants are the star attraction. The shopping list for planting out the site included 1.8m bulbs, 18,000 shrubs, 190,000 perennials, 15,000 hedge plants, 5,000 rose bushes and 3,000 trees – and the results are spectacular. The hard work won’t go to waste – after Floriade 2012 is over the site will be used as a business park.

The Innovatoren – a newly-built 70ft-high building, towering above the Limburg landscape and forming a striking icon for Floriade 2012 – will be used as a base for research into food production methods, reflecting the importance of horticulture in the region. Local produce is big here, with strawberries, blueberries and mushrooms among the fare available.

There are centres where you can pick, taste and learn more about these products.

Everywhere you look, there are signs advertising “asperges” – asparagus – which thrives in Limburg’s dry, sandy soil. Known as “white gold”, the harvest runs from mid-April until June 24 (St John’s day) with most restaurants serving it in that period. It’s gently cooked and served with either melted butter or Hollandaise sauce, chopped boiled eggs and ham. Delicious asparagus can be sampled at De Beejekurf, a chic restaurant in Venray, where hosts Paul and Ilse Franssen have built up a formidable reputation for fine dining. Since opening their doors three years ago, the Franssens have twice won the title of best restaurant in Limburg and source local produce to create their dishes, including fish and game.

Asparagus is also on the menu at Clevers in the charming village of Grubbenvorst. But Clevers isn’t a restaurant – it’s an award-winning ice-cream parlour. Asparagus is just one of the 50 flavours on offer at the delightful place – a popular refreshment stop for cyclists. Northern Limburg has more than 80 cycle routes that lead through pretty villages, along the banks of the River Meuse and through the De Groote Peel National Park. The countryside is also a haven for walkers with more than 100 marked routes, including some designed for families and children.

Historical town and city walks are a good way to explore. Our guide was Venlo-born Riet, who led us through the vibrant city treating us to a story (and café stop!) at every corner. Venlo’s residents are intensely proud of their city, which witnessed intense Allied bombing towards the end of the Second World War to secure the Dutch their liberation. Thousands of buildings were damaged but sensitive restoration means that it’s often difficult to see where old and new merge.

During the tour, we also stop at the Museum van Bommel van Dam, which is running a Japanese photography exhibition (Korakuen Garden Okayama) until August 19 to complement the flower festival. The whole city is embracing Floriade 2012 and, after dipping into the fantastical floral realm, I am not surprised.

Getting there

Belinda Szonert was a guest of Netherlands Board of Tourism and Conventions and P&O Ferries. Venlo is near Rotterdam. Admission to Floriade 2012 costs 25 euros for adults and 12.50 euros for children. B&B, at Bilderberg Hotel De Bovenste Molen in Venlo from 105 euros a night. www.lustforlimburg.com/accommodations/hotels

P&O Ferries sail daily between Hull and Rotterdam, with minicruises from £83, or £119 each way for car with two passengers, including standard cabin. They have teamed up with Superbreak to offer Floriade minicruises from £220 on selected dates throughout festival, including return crossings from Hull, two nights in a four-star Amsterdam hotel, a day’s Floriade entry and transport and coach transfers. 0871 664 6464 or www.poferries.com

By coach, Shearings’ four-day Floriade packages start at £199, five days £339. Shearings Holidays: 0844 209 7143 or www.shearings.com