An island in the sun

Richard Sutcliffe is charmed by the love hearts of Fuerteventura, a gem of winter warmth away from the shivers of home.

AT first glance, there appeared to have been a visit from an alien being. Dotted all around the southern tip of Fuerteventura were small mounds of stones, stretching into the distance and towards the Atlantic Ocean. There were hundreds, all arranged into what seemed to be centric patterns.

The promise of some much-needed winter sun had brought us to the second largest of the seven main Canary Islands from a shivering Yorkshire a few days earlier.

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And after having settled into a happy routine of alternating between beach and pool we decided the time had come to explore by a Jeep Safari.

After an enjoyable jaunt around the rugged lunar landscape that makes up much of the island we had found ourselves on the small Tarmac road that runs through Punta de Jandia on the south coast. To our left as we clambered out of the Jeep was the lighthouse that has guided ships for almost 150 years and where an informative history centre has been added in recent years to guide tourists.

To the right our attention was drawn to the unusual mounds of stones across an otherwise dry and barren land.

Sensing our intrigue, the tour guide suggested we take a look. What we found was as surprising as it was enchanting. The “mounds” were neatly-laid out love hearts made up of stones, complete with either full names or initials.

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We had wandered into an area traditionally popular with courting couples who use the stones to express their affection. The more intricate the arrangement, so the legend goes, the better the chance of the love enduring.

Some are modest affairs, containing only sufficient space for one initial each. Others are much grander affairs, the perfect symmetry of the different coloured stones on one suggesting its creators may have even brought the stones with them.

What the locals call “Love Hill” makes an impressive sight. And, yes, I can confirm that the Sutcliffes are now immortalised at this location.

Love heart safely constructed and back in the Jeep, our tour took us to a ramshackle villa that clings to the foot of the mountains in the rather isolated district of Cofete.

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Reached by a hair-rising drive along a dirt track that tested even the durability of our sturdy vehicle, it seemed a strange stop-off point for a tourist trail. The “Winter Villa” once belonged to Gustav Winter, a German-born engineer who was reputedly one of Hitler’s high-ranking officers. He built the villa in 1937 and from the start locals from the nearest town were suspicious of what was really going on at a property whose borders were protected by armed guards.

All manner of theories abounded, from Hitler intending to use it as a possible hideaway through to it doubling as a safe house for fleeing Nazis. The villa is now occupied by an elderly warden who has effectively squatted there with his wife for the best part of two decades. It’s now in such a state of disrepair that a 10-minute wander around feels almost eerie.

Our base for the week was the resort of Costa Calma, chosen because of its tranquil setting and the mile-long golden beach which is considered the best on the island. We were staying at the Rio Calma, a hotel built in 2003 but still bears the look of one that is newly-opened.

The four-star hotel has a colonial-style feel suited to the relaxing break we had been hoping for.

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It has beautifully laid out tropical gardens complete with waterfalls and fountains and dominates the northern shore of Costa Calma.

A 10-minute stroll from the centre of the resort, it also boasts tennis courts, two mini-golf courses and a spa area.

My favourite area was the private sandy beach complete with salt-water lagoon accessed by steps from the hotel.

Complete with drinks bar, it was recently included in a Daily Telegraph feature about hotels with extraordinary swimming pools.

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The lagoon is slightly warmer than the two main pools but the layout of the beach, complete with palm trees and a spectacular waterfall at one end, means that guests are sheltered from the winds that can often be a feature of a day in Fuerteventura and Lanzarote.

Fuerteventura is less frenzied than its neighbour and, in November, the temperatures were regularly in the mid to upper 20s.

Lazing on a sun-lounger and looking out across the lagoon as the sun beat down was the abiding experience I brought home to West Yorkshire.

We would have loved to have built a love heart of stones on that beach and included “Fuerteventura” in the middle.

We will be back.

Getting there

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Thomas Cook Holidays with Style offers seven nights on half board at the 4-star Rio Calma Hotel in Costa Calma from £527 per person, departing from Leeds Bradford Airport on March 10, 2012. Price includes flights, transfers and accommodation.

Jeep Safari is bookable in the resort for 59 euro sper adult. To book, please visit www.thomascookstyle.com, call 0844 412 5970 or visit the nearest Thomas Cook, Going Places or Co-operative Travel.

Fuerteventura travel guides available from £4.99. More details from www.thomascookpublishing.com .

Prices correct at time of issue and subject to change, optional supplements may be applicable at the time of booking.

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Parking available at Leeds Bradford Airport, seven nights from £37.99. Entry to the Yorkshire Premier Lounge at the Airport, and Fast Track through passport control, costs from £15 per adult. Book via www.leedsbradfordairport.co.uk

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