Latino lessons

Puerto Rico: Spaniards colonised it and now it is the turn of tourists looking for a Latin vibe and Caribbean sunshine. Ed Harris reports.

San Juan is the meticulously preserved heart of this easy-going Caribbean island. The old town is the pearl of the area, a slice of Andalucian charm transported to the Caribbean. There are streets of beautifully restored houses, many in the Spanish revival style, with shutters and ironwork balconies overlooking quiet courtyards, which call to mind the hidden gems of Seville or Granada.

It’s a little bit of Spain and a large dollop of Latin. Once you’ve worn out some shoe leather on the cobbled streets, take a seat at the bar at La Bombonera, a cafe that’s been dishing out cafes con leche and mallorcas (a divine, buttery sweet bread that’s toasted and sprinkled with sugar) since 1902. Their battered old coffee machine is rumoured to be more than 100 years old, and has seen some service. Regulars (who look as though they might have been around nearly as long) sit and enjoy lunch under framed sepia prints of old Puerto Rico. It’s an absolute joy. If you still have an appetite after coffee and cakes, take a stroll to La Mallorquina, another characterful and venerable place for lunch. Try bacalhau (salted cod fish) from the specials chalked up by the door while you admire the handsome space and artfully aged mirrors hanging on the walls.

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San Juan is big in cruising too – the second largest port in the Western hemisphere with over 700 home port sailings a year and regular visits by all the main cruise lines.

When you’ve eaten your fill and decided to lay off the rum for a while, try a trip to El Yunque. This mountainous subtropical rainforest (the only rainforest that belongs to the US Forest Service) contains waterfalls, 26 varieties of animal species found nowhere else in the world, panoramic views over the island – and all less than an hour’s drive from San Juan.

For a real change of pace, a short 25-minute hop by light aeroplane brings you to the altogether more tranquil island of Vieques. Travellers who have never flown in an eight-seater, propeller-driven plane before could be forgiven for thinking they had stepped into a Caribbean Bond movie. Isn’t that Roger Moore there on the tarmac in a safari suit?

Vieques is a small island (population: around 10,000; traffic lights: zero) and development is restricted, which means its beaches really are unspoilt. This is due at least in part to the fact that, until recently, much of the island was a US military base. Wild horses roam the roads, and visitors will occasionally encounter a dog or a cat warming itself on the ground, adding to the languorous pace of island life.

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Enjoy a fried grouper sandwich at Duffy’s, a supremely relaxed beachfront restaurant at Esperenza, on the south of the island, which also serves fish and chips as good as any back in rainy England. A must-see attraction on Vieques is Mosquito Bay, or “Bio-Bay”. The waters here are filled with micro-organisms that glow when disturbed. Fish move with astonishing rapidity, leaving glowing trails, and the propellers of the tourist boat cause the water to light up. Combined with a clear, starlit sky overhead, it makes for a truly memorable experience.

If you need somewhere stylish to rest your head, the Sheraton Puerto Rico is handy for the airport and old town, has fabulous views from the picture windows, and plenty of dining options. The Caribe Hilton, the first Hilton built outside mainland USA in 1949 retains some of the glamour of that era. Think of stars such as Gloria Swanson, the Hollywood actress and singer who was one of the first celebrity guests, as you contemplate the sea view from your balcony. It is also said that the Pina Colada was invented here.

Families looking for an all-in-one resort, with everything from a water park to golf course, might want to look at the El Conquistador on a cliff overlooking the ocean on the east of the island with 980 rooms. It even has its own island. Travellers looking for a bit of boho luxury might fancy the W Retreat & Spa on the northern Atlantic coast of Vieques.

Getting there

Ed Harris was a guest of the Puerto Rico Tourist Board and flew with British Airways, which offers return flights into San Juan from Gatwick from £477 (www.ba.com). Operators providing packages include Kenwood Travel, which offers a seven-night, two-centre stay including three nights in Caribe Hilton and four in W Vieques, both on room-only basis and including return BA flights ex-Gatwick and internal flights to Vieques Island, from £1,599. Connecting flights into Gatwick are available from Manchester (£76).

www.seepuertorico.co.uk.

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