Lavender hill mob

Draining a glass of red at my third wine-tasting in five days, I’d almost forgotten I was on a trip to discover the great outdoors of the Ardeche and Vaucluse in Provence. Against a backdrop of rolling hills covered in a sea of vineyards and lavender fields, I found a variety of adrenaline-fuelled activities as well as countless excellent bistros and home-from-home guesthouses.

“Is this your first time in the Ardeche?” I was continually asked. “This is my first time in France ever,” I responded to some amazed looks. I spent my first night at Le Couradou in Labastide-de-Virac, owned by British expat Diana Little, with a group of Belgian tourists who had been visiting the region twice a year for more than 10 years.

We shared a joyous meal on the terrace in the warm evening sun and I was quickly falling in love with this beautiful, rustic landscape. As I retired to my cottage-style room with wooden beams, antique furniture and pretty pale pink walls, the thought of anything more strenuous than lifting a glass to my lips seemed unnecessary.

But with the region experiencing unseasonably hot weather, donning my hiking boots to take in the outstanding natural beauty of the Cirque de Gens in Pradons was the perfect way to spend the following morning. Limestone crags overlook the bends of the Ardeche river and sturdy trainers or walking shoes are a must as the terrain is fairly rugged and some scrambling – over, under and around boulders – is required.

The circular route takes about two hours to complete and later I sampled the other adventures of the Ardeche river. Buzzing with families and twenty-somethings from the riverside campsites and lodges, laughter and squeals can be heard as daring youths jump from the rocks into the breathtakingly cool water. Now, I admit, I wasn’t so adventurous to join them, preferring to admire the gorges by taking a five-mile canoe trip. I was accompanied by an experienced instructor, who did most of the strenuous paddling – I was a little tentative, but it turned out to be a dry and safe haven as we meandered along below 300m cliffs.

About halfway along the course sits the unspoilt Pont d’Arc, a 60m high natural rock arch which is, I found after a bit of gentle persuasion, the ideal spot to take a dip in the water. After all that exercise, what better way to undo it all than with a traditional French lunch. Bistrot de Pays Le Bec Figue in Labeaume, one of the most picturesque villages in the Ardeche, serves up a stunning array of meats, cheeses, olive oil-drenched salad and succulent fruit, all washed down with a sweet rosé. And talking of rosé, it would be an injustice if I didn’t mention Domaine Notre-Dame de Cousignac, Bourg-St-Andeol – a family-run winery where I stayed the night.

It would be hard to find a more friendly and welcoming B&B, and owner Raphael Pommier and his American wife Rachel are more than happy to share their wine-making secrets. Raphael, a seventh generation winemaker, took me on a tour of his vineyard, which includes a sixth-century chapel from which the estate takes its name. The taste of Raphael’s grapes straight from the organic vines is sublime – sweet, juicy and just like a grape should taste – and they lose none of their flavour from vine to bottle.

After yet more gastronomic indulgences, it was about time I got back on the adventure trail – and this meant another stop at a winery in Vaucluse to pick up my electric bike (www.velorelaxduventoux.com). Starting at the foot of Mount Ventoux, known as the Giant of Provence, which towers over this landscape, I rode through the plains and country roads with ease, bowled over by the magnificent views.

I enjoyed the dismount to visit the vineyards of Chateau Pesquie (www.chateaupesquie.com), Mormoiron, for a tour of its ageing cellars and a taste of its vast range of wines. After another day in the 30C heat, I was certainly ready for my dinner and night at La Villa Noria in Modene – and I was in for a treat. Relaxing in the very heart of this charming, tranquil guesthouse didn’t prepare me for the hustle and bustle of the Provencal market in Isle sur la Sorgue.

Nicknamed Little Venice due to the various canals crossing the town, it is renowned for its flea market and antique dealerships with more than 300 stands and shops open every weekend.

Getting there

Charlotte Birch travelled with easyJet to Marseille from London Gatwick. Prices one-way start from £27.99. For more information, visit www.easyJet.com

Her journey included one night each in Le Couradou (www.lecouradou.com); Domaine Notre-Dame de Cousignac (www.notre-dame-de-cousignac.com); La Villa Noria (www.villa-noria.com)t and Le Crillon (www.lecrillon-luberon.com)