Loo with a view

I took a deep breath – partly because this was a moment that the crew on our boat had built up over the last few hours, but mainly because it was still a men’s public toilet and you can never be too careful.

According to one newspaper report – proudly pinned up in the entrance – the gentlemen’s toilets at Rothesay Pier on the Isle of Bute is one of the Top 10 Loos in the World.

Commissioned by Rothesay Harbour Trust in 1899 during Rothesay’s hey-day as a holiday resort, the gents lavatory is an unusual survivor of the Victorian era. Fourteen urinals stand like sentinels along two walls, another six surround a central stand. It’s worth the 20p to take a look and many tourists do.

The visit to Rothesay came on the second day of our six-night Heritage and Wildlife of South Argyll cruise, off the west coast of Scotland. There were 10 of us on board the Majestic Lines boat – an 85 ft long converted fishing vessel called Glen Massan – which had set off from Holy Loch, Dunoon, the day before. Our group included eight couples and two single women.

The cabins are all comfortable doubles with en suite bathrooms. The size of the cabins is spacious for a boat cruise but compact compared to a hotel bedroom. We found it perfectly adequate for our needs during our stay. The Heritage and Wildlife Cruise of South Argyll explores the sheltered sea lochs of the spectacular Cowal peninsula, which is rich in wildlife. The first afternoon saw us making our way up Loch Long to Carrick Castle – a 14th century ruin on the Campbell shore – where we anchored for the night.

Food, which is included in the price of the holiday, is a major part of the boat trips and the day goes something like this: continental and cooked breakfast at 8.30am; tea and home-made cake/biscuits at 11am; a two course lunch; more tea and homemade cake/biscuits in the afternoon; canapés in the evening followed by a two course dinner. Next, is a cheese board made up of local cheeses, followed by tea/coffee and a handmade chocolate. For those with a bigger appetite there are baskets of fruit, crisps and chocolate available all day to snack on. Wine with the meal is also included in the price.

This cruise was incredibly sociable. Meals were eaten together around a big table and although there are a number of areas around the boat to explore and find your own space, you are essentially on holiday with up to 10 other people. It’s not a retreat for people who want to be on their own. Our lively bunch included a couple from Bermuda, an English couple who live in South Africa, a couple from Kent, and two ladies from Norfolk and Essex.

Our second day – the first full day – was toilet visiting. We spent the morning travelling to Rothesay on the Isle of Bute after a delicious full Scottish breakfast. It was during this journey that we had our first glimpse of wildlife when a group of porpoises started swimming and playing with the boat.

We disembarked for a few hours and decided to take a taxi to Mount Stuart – a gothic mansion in 350 acres of beautiful gardens. After getting back on the boat we made our way to Loch Riddon where we spent the night.

The next day, the prospect of gong ashore for a one-and-a-half-hour stroll to walk off the huge amount of food we had consumed was very appealing. We were dropped off on the shore and went on a lovely, mostly coastal walk to Tighnabruaich where the boat met us.

In the afternoon we stopped in Tarbert, a pretty fishing town, to stretch our legs again before the boat made its way up lower Loch Fyne to Loch Gair – the best place for seeing otters.

Day four saw us travelling further up Loch Fyne. Loch Fyne is the longest sea loch in Scotland at 41 miles in length and set amongst some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in Scotland. At Inveraray some of us decided to visit Inveraray Jail, which was operational until the 1930s, and afterwards we walked up to a look-out tower above Inveraray Castle which has amazing views over the town and bay. Back on the boat, we made our way back down Loch Fyne to Otter Ferry where we stopped for the night and saw a group of seals sitting on a rock.

We woke up on day five to see jellyfish surrounding the boat in the water. After breakfast we journey out of Loch Fyne to the north coast of Arran to Lochranza.

Some decided to visit the island’s whisky distillery, one of the few remaining independent ones in Scotland. We decided to walk along the coast around Lochranza where we saw red deer and more seals. In the afternoon we cruised to Lamlash, the capital of the island on the west coast of Arran where we spend the night.

Our final full day began with an optional three-mile walk from Lamlash to Brodick set in a sweeping sandy bay. Highlights included the Arran chocolate factory, Wooleys of Arran bakery – famed for its oatcakes, and the Arran cheese shop. After lunch we made the choppy journey to Millport off the mainland where we walked along the sea front and visited the smallest cathedral in the UK.

Our final evening was spent in Port Bannatyne on the Isle of Bute. Evenings around the dinner table steadily became rowdier during the week, culminating on the last night in games and singing. It proved to be the perfect end to a relaxing week sailing some of Scotland’s most beautiful waterways.

Getting there

Majestic Line run three-night and six-night cruises, with all-inclusive prices from £895.

Thirteen cruising itineraries take in the Islands of Mull, Skye, Arran, Loch Ness and the Caledonian Canal, depart from Holy Loch, near Dunoon and from Oban between April and October.

Accommodation comprises six en-suite double/twin cabins for up to 11 guests. Information, visit www.themajesticline.co.uk, e-mail [email protected] or call 0131 6235012.