Piel good factor

PIEL ISLAND: There’s a tiny spot off the coast of Cumbria with its own King, Queen and castle. It’s also got its own pub and exotic pigs destined for the lunch menu. Mark Holdstock paid a visit.

Barrow-in-Furness probably isn’t anyone’s number one holiday destination, but if you are heading to the departure point for the Piel Island ferry, Barrow seems to be where you are going because this is the name on road signs along the way. The ferry turns out to be a small boat with an outboard motor which chugs out from a spit of land called Roa Island where you are rewarded with some stunning views along the coastal road beside the northern edge of Morecambe Bay. The place where sand, sea and sky meet as one at low tide.

The tiny tidal Piel Island is actually the property of Barrow-in-Furness Borough council, gifted to the town in 1920 by the Duke of Buccleuch as a war memorial. It lies on the sands bordering the deep water inlet to Barrow Harbour. “It’s a little secret,” says Steve Chattaway, who runs the pub on the Island, The Ship Inn. He’s is also The King of Piel.

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“We’ve been trying to put it on the map. We find that people come for a day trip, and then they come back with tents. The day trips are lovely, but to really appreciate the island I think you need to sleep on it, and watch the sunset and the wildlife.”

When the wind isn’t blowing a gale, Piel Island is a lovely place to relax. Other than the pub there are few distractions, apart from some very cute Kune Kune pigs destined for the breakfast and dinner menus – except for one called Nora, a much-loved pet.

The Chattaways moved to the island five years ago, but only managed to re-open the Ship Inn itself last year after extensive refurbishment work. They were no strangers to Piel though.

“We’ve holidayed, and spent weekends here since we were small children,” says Sheila Chattaway. “The Ship Inn became vacant and our friends persuaded us to put in for it, and 350 other people put in for it as well.

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“It was a two-year whittling down process. The inn’s been here for 300 years.”

On the Southern edge of the the island is a ruined castle. “There’s two schools of thought about the castle,” says Steve. “One is that it was a warehouse.” This sounds plausible since a huge amount of wool was exported from the coast and the inlet next to Piel was the only natural deep water channel in North West England at the time.

“Another one says it was a villa for the abbots at Furness Abbey, because if you can imagine, they were all-powerful. There was a rise in piracy and raiding parties from Scotland. So they got permission from King Stephen to crenellate and fortify it.”

Although the castle is a ruin, there is still plenty of it to see. Bits have fallen into the sea as strong winds and fierce tides eat away at the land itself. “The Island used to be a lot bigger then.” says Steve “It was a 100-odd acres, now it’s only 50. It’s erosion. Which is why of the castle has fallen into the sea. The south-easterly and south-westerly winds come straight across the bay. You get horrendous waves, when you see seaweed landing up on our porch window.”

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Despite the wind, the weather is calm enough for camping for much of the year and the wildlife on the island itself and across the water can be spectacular.

“We’ve got grey seals and common seals. There’s about a hundred seals over on Walney. I remember as kids there used to just be one and the fishermen are always kicking off about them. But I say they wouldn’t be here if there was no fish. and something is obviously supporting quite a sizable population.”

The islands and the area around it are all part of the South Walney and Piel Flats site of special scientific interest (SSSI), partly designated because of the area’s importance for birds.

Steve Chattaway’s King of Piel Island title is taken seriously by those who love the place. “Traditionally, when you get the tenancy, or the lease for the pub, you become the King of Piel. You basically get read an oath. You’ve got to be an ardent lover of the opposite sex, a moderate drinker and smoker and willing to partake of all activities on Peel Island and make sure everybody has a good time. It’s just a quirky English tradition.

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“You get anointed by having copious quantities of ale thrown over you, and they always spike it by putting pond water in it, or put it in the freezer.”

GETTING THERE

Roa Island, from where the small ferry leaves is off the A5087 road from Ulverston to Barrow. The ferry operates April - September from 11am to 6pm on weekdays, and from 10am on weekends. It is subject to the weather – check with Steve and Sheila Chattaway on 07516 453 784

Roa Island can be reached by bus from Ulverston or Roose stations. The Number 11 operated by Blueworks Private Hire terminates a short walk from the ferry.

Rooms at the Ship Inn cost between £75 per night for a double plus breakfast, and £40 for “room-only” family room. Space for about 300 tents.

http://www.pielisland.co.uk

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