Revolution, what revolution?

With a new president, things are looking up in Egypt. Neil Lancefield discovers the resort of Sharm el-Sheikh has stayed blissfully unaltered by the upheavals.

Revolution is hardly a topic of conversation you expect on holiday, but any visit to Egypt is unlikely to escape at least a mention of the uprising which began early last year and saw The Muslim Brotherhood’s Mohammed Mursi voted in as president last week.

The violent clashes in Cairo’s Tahrir Square dominated TV news across the world, and the country has since been shunned by many tourists, fearful of how the instability might affect them.

Hide Ad
Hide Ad

Even Sharm el-Sheikh, 200 miles from the capital, suffered from holidays being cancelled during the unrest.

On the southern tip of the Sinai peninsula, Sharm grew from a sleepy fishing village to a major tourist destination in a few decades. Long stretches of natural beaches, a warm climate throughout the year and clear water for Red Sea diving are among its main selling points.

Known as the City of Peace after hosting several conferences to resolve disputes in the region, Sharm experienced destruction on a massive scale in 2005 when terrorists planted car bombs which ripped through shopping and hotel areas, killing more than 80 people.

But it failed to stop the rapid pace of development, and the main tourist area Naama Bay features hotels from all the big international chains, alongside countless bars, restaurants, casinos and nightclubs to keep guests occupied throughout the night.

Hide Ad
Hide Ad

We were based at the luxurious Movenpick resort, which boasts natural coral reefs only a few breaststrokes away from one of its five private beaches.

Sharm is primarily a diving destination. Enthusiasts come from far and wide to experience the Red Sea, and many take a day trip to Ras Mohammed national park to get their underwater thrills.

But amateurs like us could hire snorkelling gear for just £6 and swim over the reefs and among the colourful fish just minutes from our accommodation.

Our hotel room was designed with an Arabic-style interior, and the aura of calm and relaxation it created was vital after we embarked on the most energy-sapping holiday excursion I have ever experienced..

Hide Ad
Hide Ad

When we were planning our holiday there was no doubt that watching the sunrise over Mount Sinai was something we both wanted to do.

We thought it would stop us getting bored, in case we found ourselves sitting by the pool every day. But by 4am, half-way up the mountain where Moses was said to have been given the Ten Commandments by God, poolside boredom had never sounded so good.

Our journey began at midnight, when we boarded a minibus for the bumpy three-hour drive north. On arrival we were joined by a young Bedouin man who was tasked with the unfortunate responsibility of getting us up the mountain by sunrise, and back down to visit St Catherine’s Monastery.

Although the time of day meant I was becoming increasingly tired, at least the scale of the task ahead was hidden in darkness. The Bedouin have set up small coffee shops along the rocky path, providing caffeine and snacks to keep visitors awake as they plod onwards and upwards by torchlight.

Hide Ad
Hide Ad

The sun rose a few minutes after our arrival at the summit, and as we sat slumped on a rock we gazed out over the rugged horizon with a feeling of exhaustion and satisfaction.

At the foot of Mount Sinai sits St Catherine’s Monastery. Built in the 6th-century, it is one of the world’s oldest Christian monasteries. The significance of the Byzantine architecture and collections of Christian manuscripts and icons were partly lost on my weary mind.

Nevertheless, it was an interesting visit and we enjoyed seeing the transplanted burning bush – complete with fire extinguisher – and learning that the Catherine wheel firework was named after Saint Catherine.

The only other item left on our “must-do” list was to ride a camel. The bustling streets of Naama Bay offer many opportunities, but having cars whizzing past was not how I wanted to remember the experience. Many tour companies offer camel riding in the desert, so after a short drive and a not-so-smooth attempt at climbing on board, we were led by a group of Bedouin children as young as four. We then spent the most peaceful hour of the whole week steadily making our way through the desert, surrounded by only mountains and sand.

Hide Ad
Hide Ad

Later that night, the tranquillity of the camel ride was replaced by the buzzy atmosphere of Naama Bay, which offers lively nightlife. We’d been warned to expect some pestering by businesses looking for trade, and before I’d even shut the door of our taxi, we were being urged to visit a bar. The hassling of tourists is most prevalent along the main pedestrianised street. But we quickly learnt that a polite smile and a firm “no thank you” does the trick.

The reluctance of travellers to visit Egypt during political uncertainty is understandable, but Sharm is about the same distance from the capital as Cornwall is from London. The Egyptian authorities hope that Britons who would not be put off from visiting Newquay by a protest at Trafalgar Square will use the same logic when deciding on a trip to the Red Sea.

Getting there

Neil Lancefield was a guest of the Egyptian State Tourist Office and flew with Egypt Air to Sharm el-Sheikh.

Destination information is available from Egyptian State Tourism on 020 7493 5283 or www.gotoegypt.org and www.egypt.travel

Hide Ad
Hide Ad

EgyptAir return flights to Sharm el-Sheikh ex-Heathrow lead in at £210 plus taxes. Connecting flights ex-Manchester and Glasgow from around £100 return.

EgyptAir reservations: 0844 822 1110 and www.egyptair.com

Neil stayed at the Movenpick Sharm El Sheikh Naama Bay. Prices start from £67 per room per night (B&B) incl tax and service as part of the Movenpick Hotels & Resorts ‘Endless Sunshine’ promotion.

For further information and reservations call 0020 6936 00 081 or visit www.movenpick-hotels.com

Related topics: