Treasured islands

The Scillies are small. Even the largest island, St Mary’s, would fit into a typical mainland conurbation. It is less than four square miles. The other main islands include St Martin’s, Bryher and Tresco – the latter is rather manicured (feudal”, said one islander). All have a relaxed, grown-up ambience, seemingly immune from loud yobbish street life. Prime Minister Harold Wilson and his wife were famous admirers – Lord Wilson is buried at St Mary’s and Lady Wilson has continued to use their holiday home.

You can fly from Lands End, Newquay and Exeter, or take the traditional sea route from Penzance, docking in Hugh Town, a mile or so from the airport. This sea route closes over winter. It can be rough at any time. Quay to quay it took nearly three hours, with 28 miles in unsheltered waters beyond the coastal villages of Mousehole and Lamorna, passing smugglers’ caves and the hideaway of John Le Carre. The Scillonian III is well-equipped after a refit, with lots of deck perches, a café and indoor lounges and even a windowless quiet lounge.

Our home for two nights, the Atlantic Hotel, was in sight as the boat entered the bay, on the very beach edge, an easy walk from the quay where we joined a string of walkers and birders and islanders disembarking. Fishing boats were bobbing in the harbour, cheery maritime colours of white, red and blue. Parasols fluttered in sunshine on the Atlantic’s terrace, though on the boot heels of September the weather was good one day, damp the next, but always warm.

Within half an hour of landing we were off to explore, taking a high path round the headland. This is typical Cornish coastal terrain with one difference – the walks are circular so you can do even St Mary’s in a day. You ramble over pleasant heathery, cropped heath. There are wind-sculpted boulders pre-cursing Moore and Hepworth by, I suppose, millennia. We swam at Old Town bay (bracing) and ate scones at Tolman café, joined by tame sparrows.

Back at the Atlantic there was copious hot water (not always a given even in smart hotels like this) to warm up after the chill of the swim. The adjoining Atlantic Inn was low, dark, inviting and serves good food in a relaxed buzz. The St Austell Trelawny draught beer is excellent.

Dinner at the hotel is formal in service and smart casual dress feels right. There was a surprisingly yummy creamy white onion and parsnip soup; baked cod, good veg including roasted sweet potato. We slept soundly. So did the seagulls.

Day two: the TV news says the flight from Lands End is delayed by fog. After breakfast the weather veers from sea fret to sun. The Osprey launch takes us to Tresco on an £8.40 return ticket for the 20-minute crossing. We walk to Old Grimsby Quay. Here there is the Ruin Beach Café– recommended by a smart beach walker – but a crab sandwich at £12 on an island surrounded by them is a no-no, so we sauntered on through the pristine holiday home enclave to King Charles Castle ruins and the adjacent Cromwell’s Castle, a heavily fortified tower and gun battery at the shore commanding the water to Bryher. On this day it was a blustery experience. Tresco is privately run on a long lease from the Crown, and it has an estate-owned feel with bespoke green signage.

The islanders are a cheery bunch.. There was a picture spread in the autumn edition of Scilly Now & Then on the annual raft race. News, too, of the strenuous gig rowing races at which the locals excel.

There was an exhortation from a councillor not to borrow bicycles and suggestion of a minimum fine of £250 for the first offence of this heinous crime, followed by Draconian penalties for repeat offences – such as bringing back the lash. Crikey.

Day three is sunny and warm on St Mary’s. We walk round The Garrison, the heavily fortified headland peninsula, with cannon positions from times long ago. This is a rewarding walk, with plenty of the familiar benches dedicated to those who enjoyed these isles when summer days seemed they could never end. We read books under a tanning sun. Eat small blackberries at the path edge, admire the cheery sound of chattering sparrows, munch a marvellous crab and marinaded prawn sandwich (£5.50 from the Post Office deli). I, too, am loving these islands.

Getting there

Isles of Scilly Travel, for the Skybus plane and boat www.islesofscilly-travel.co.uk and 01736 334220. The boat operates from late March until the end of November. A day trip is £35 and gives several hours ashore in summer. A standard single ticket is £37.50. Skybus flies all year and takes 15 minutes from Lands End, and costs £100 for a day return including transport from Penzance. 
An open single fare is £70. It also flies direct from Newquay and Exeter. 
There are no flights on Sundays, and Sunday sailings only in the peak summer months this year.

Tourist Information on the islands www.simplyscilly.co.uk and 01720 422 536. Includes bus, taxi and classic car tours. Places to stay: St Mary’s is smothered with B&B, guest houses, hotels, pubs and self-catering. Prices at The Atlantic (open early March to early November) start at £60pp. www.atlantichotelscilly.co.uk and 01720 422 417.

Inter island ferries: www.scillyboating.co.uk and 01720 423999.