Voyage of discovery

I was a little sceptical about spending 10 days with total strangers on Atsitsa Bay – a remote spot on the Greek island of Skyros. After a night in Athens meeting my new travel buddies, we set off for our unspoilt destination. As the ferry cruised across the clear blue water of the Aegean Sea, the Mamma Mia!-style view lulled me into a false sense of security.

I was in for a shock on arrival when I spotted the seemingly regimented timetable of activity scrawled on a blackboard. Breakfast, morning meeting, classes, siesta, another class, dinner and an evening activity. What had I signed up to?

Early morning yoga eased me into the first day. Then I enjoyed coffee and ice cream overlooking the stunning sea view at Marianna’s café, before ditching the suggested morning classes for my own enlightening workshop – a two-hour slot where I soaked up the sun on the many beaches and hidden coves dotted around. My favourite hotspot, Dead Goat Beach, was unsurprisingly named after the local rumour a dead goat was found there. While I sunbathed, some opted to find their inner confidence and revive their lust for life on courses including Passionate Living with renowned psychotherapist, Malcolm Stern, or Tantric Love with Martin and Hanna Jelfs. Others chose lighter courses, such as Watercolour, Drawing with a talented Scottish artist, Michael Gahagan. “Anyone can draw,” he insisted, to scoffs and resigned grunts from participants, as each teacher introduced their course. Yet his calm presence and sincere belief converted some doubters.

In the first week, I opted for windsurfing with watersports guru Mark Gunston. Within two hours he’d given us the self-belief to think we could look as cool as he did surfing the waves.

“Look up!” he patiently instructed my windsurfing buddy, as she danced around the board in a desperate attempt to stay on it. I, on the other hand, spent most of my time collapsing into the sea.

“Arms straight,” Mark repeated calmly. Sounds easy enough, I thought. Then... splash! More than any soul-searching course, it gave me a much-needed confidence boost.

After four days, we were given a break and the chance to visit Skyros town. Quaint, with crooked, winding streets, friendly locals and a buzzing nightlife, we succumbed to a night out on the town before throwing ourselves into the final week.

Inspired and surprised by their inner artist, many continued the drawing class. I took a deep breath and decided to learn how to use my ailing vocal cords. Singing with Sarah Warwick (who had three dance hits in the Nineties as Sarah Washington) didn’t disappoint. “I used to think of my songs as doodles,” she admitted, as we cowered in a circle and prayed we wouldn’t be asked to sing a solo. “Then I got a number one hit and I knew I’d made it.” Heads perked up as our hopes were suddenly raised. Spurred on, within minutes she had us belting out a harmony.

Each evening there were different activities, from a fun pub quiz and salsa dancing, to singing and a “night of passion” – sharing poems, songs or stories that meant something to you. Then it was off to the jetty for a spot of stargazing. As time slipped by lifelong friendships formed and people got bolder. Strangers just days earlier, we were soon sharing stories of heartbreak, loss, self-discovery and ongoing battles. One inspirational mum revealed one of her children is autistic, and that for three years he didn’t cuddle her. An Irishman told us about meeting his first love on a Greek island much like Skyros when he was 11.

As the 10 days drew to a close, we organised a cabaret in the bar. Previously terrified to take centre stage, I joined my classmates for a couple of tunes, others stepped up to the mic to showcase their once untapped talent. Then on the final night, artist Michael held an exhibition of his students’ work. It was a credit to his teaching.

Downsides are hard to find, but going armed with mosquito spray and an open mind are essential. And though it’s a five-star experience, it’s not five-star accommodation. Small but comfortable bamboo huts litter the hillside surrounded by fig, apricot and almond trees, where each morning you’re serenaded by a cicada chorus, then lulled to sleep by cooing owls. It takes a few days to get used to, but once you’ve adjusted, you’ll want to bottle the sounds and take them home. If showering under the stars and sleeping among nature isn’t for you, there are basic rooms in the house.

Of my group, almost half of the 24 people had been before, and at the end of the 10 days, six stayed on. Back home, I missed the crashing of the waves, exquisite sunsets and fresh food, most of all I missed the people and the spirit of the place. Challenging? Yes. Transformational? Undoubtedly.

GETTING THERE

* Nicole Waring flew BA to Athens and stayed as a guest of direct-sell operator Skyros, which offers holidays on the island, from £695 for ten days including full board, all activities and courses, and standard twin share accommodation. Skyros offers return transfers from Athens airport, including an overnight stay in an Athens hotel, for £155. Upgrades available at the Skyros centre include single hut (£175), sharing an en suite twin room in house (£75) and single room in house with private bathroom (£225).

* Reservations: 01983 865 566 or email [email protected]. EasyJet, British Airways and Aegean Airlines flights to Athens start at around £150.