Zimbabwe: Living landscape

The Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve in Zimbabwe.
The Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve in Zimbabwe.
  • Back from brink: Once crippled by an oppressive government regime, Zimbabwe is becoming one of the best value African safari destinations, says Sarah Marshall.
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Now in full spring bloom, a purple haze of jacaranda trees swathes Harare’s quiet suburbs. Images of riots, broadcast worldwide 15 years ago are no more than ghostly memories, put to rest in the dry, dusty soil where a few stray petals now lay.

Spiralling hyperinflation, which reached an estimated mind-boggling 79.6bn per cent in 2008, along with violent land seizures, unashamed political corruption and inevitable international trade embargoes brought one of Africa’s richest nations to its knees. A thriving tourist industry collapsed, safari lodges closed and excellent guides, reputed to be the best trained on the continent, left for a better life elsewhere.

The Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve in Zimbabwe.

The Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve in Zimbabwe.

But now fortunes seem to be changing. Despite Robert Mugabe’s steadfast refusal to relinquish power, foreign investment is returning, new lodges are opening and tourists are discovering an overwhelmingly hospitable country, rich in diverse wildlife, heart-stopping scenery and traces of ancient civilisations.

We’re driving south-east from the capital to Gonarezhou National Park, the second largest park in Zimbabwe. At present, scheduled flights only operate a few times per week from Johannesburg, and the only affordable alternative is an eight-hour ride from Harare, made even less bearable by my driver’s insistence on playing an MP3 of bird calls on a loop.

“I’m hoping to train as a guide,” he confides in me, and I wonder if, after our epic journey, I too might be able to qualify.

Overhanging the Save River, just outside the park boundaries and close to the Mahenye village, Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge is working hard to build a bridge between community and wildlife, with tourism providing the obvious stepping stone.

Owner Clive Stockil, who was awarded a Tusk Conservation Award by Prince William is 2013, has served as a vital intermediary between the government and local Shangaan people, and has subsequently helped reduce poaching in the park by 85 per cent. Powering across sandy, dried out riverbeds, we head into the bush, weaving through fans of ilala palms and 2,000-year-old baobab trees. One trunk is so bulbous, our guide Thomas claims poachers once used it as a hideout.

We encounter several nyala, a species of antelope native to southern Africa, and catch a fleeting glimpse of wild dogs. “We’ve had 10 packs denning in the park this year,” Thomas proudly tells me. “But they’re hard to spot.”

Elephants, on the other hand, are a game drive guarantee – there are 11,000 in the park – although their behaviour is far from predictable. “Did the elephants interview you?” asks another guide wryly when we return to the lodge. “If you weren’t scared, then you passed.”

Fortunately, I make the grade, and my next stop, the neighbouring Singita Pamushana, is a breeze in comparison. Set within the private 130,000 acre fenced Malilangwe Reserve, the wildlife – a mixture of antelope, birds, big cats and even black and white rhino – is easier to manage, and there’s greater flexibility with game drives.

With infinity plunge pools on the private decks of villas perched high in the rocks, it’s an obvious hit with A-listers, and I’m told my bright Zulu-patterned abode, Villa 1, wowed Catherine Zeta Jones and Michael Douglas on their honeymoon.

But for all its grand interior design, Pamushana’s greatest attractions are outdoors.

My guide, Time, and I set out at 4.30am, to spend a morning in a secluded hide next to a watering hole. On our way, he stops the vehicle to pick up some crumbly white hyena dung and tells me that during the crisis years, school children would use the calcium-rich faeces as blackboard chalk.

When we arrive, the watering hole is already busy. Giraffe splay their legs and gently bow down to slurp the water, while swarms of quelea “locust birds” blow like gusty clouds from one bush to another. Two cheetah cubs emerge from the long grass, their white Mohican tufts backlit by the morning sun, with their mother in close pursuit.

Afterwards, Time takes me to see some of the 80 bushmen painting sites in the surrounding forest.

But the most impressive drawings can be found a six-hour drive north-west in the Matobo Hills, a rocky, undulating landscape formed more than 2,000 million years ago and strewn with granite boulders. Built into the rock face on a private concession in the Matobo National Park, Camp Amalinda offers an upmarket take on cave dwellings, with some of the en-suite rooms even featuring ancient art work.

I head to the Nswatugi Cave to see images of rhinos, eland (a symbol of fertility) and women with surprisingly detailed voluptuous bottoms.

The hills, which formed Zimbabwe’s first national park in 1926, have always held sacred significance for the Ndebele people, and British imperialist Cecil Rhodes, who founded Rhodesia (now Zambia and Zimbabwe), is buried here.

Even today, many Zimbabweans credit Rhodes for efficient road building and the provision of education.

It’s true the country boasts one of the highest literacy rates in Africa, and the safari guides are rated the best in the world.

It’s something that’s demonstrated again and again during my stay in the country, but especially when visiting the Somalisa camp on a private concession in Hwange, Zimbabwe’s largest park, which is the size of Switzerland.

We have to work hard for sightings, but it does focus my attention on some of the smaller details.

I’m mesmerized by a dung beetle’s determined attempts to push a dung ball up a hill, and I even witness a very unusual kill – an Egyptian cobra pouncing on a small frog.

That night, we sit on a deck next to a watering hole and watch elephants gather for a noisy drink just a few metres from our feet.

“Zimbabwe was one of the richest countries in Africa,” says veteran guide Peter. “Now fields lay fallow and people have lost their savings. But we don’t give up.”

I can see that. Like those ancient balancing boulders on their old dollar notes, Zimbabweans aren’t easily toppled.

• Sarah Marshall was a guest of The Ultimate Travel Company (020 3051 8098, www.theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk) who offers an 11-day safari To Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge, Singita Pamushana, Amalinda and Somalisa from £6,420 per person. Includes all meals, drinks, activities, private transfers and flights from Heathrow with Kenya Airways.