AN, chef-proprietor of Michelin-starred The Star Inn at Helmsley, has put together a second cookery book, this time looking at the wonders of game. Loose Birds and Game showcases the heritage and versatility of game, while making it appealing and accessible to a wider audience.
Roe Deer Carpaccio
400g venison loin, 5g crushed spices, eg star anise, coriander seeds, a little oil for frying, 4 tsp grain mustard, 100g mixed herbs, chopped, 200g smoked trout, cut into 1cm thick slices, a little lemon juice and olive oil to finish, seasoning
For the remoulade: 2 apples, 1 large bulb of fennel, a little lemon juice, 50g mayonnaise, seasoning
For the grissini: 250g strong flour, 5g fresh yeast, tsp salt, tsp sugar, a little olive oil, 30ml water, 1 bunch of dill, chopped, fresh herbs to garnish
Season the venison loin with salt, pepper and crushed spices. Heat a large frying pan with a little oil, add the loin and gently brown off for one minute. Set aside and leave to cool, then coat with the mustard and roll in the herbs. Wrap in cling film to maintain the shape.
To make the remoulade: Peel and grate the apples, then trim and grate the fennel, adding a little lemon juice, to prevent it becoming brown. Season and mix in the mayonnaise to a fine "coleslaw" consistency. Season to taste.
To make the grissini: Mix the flour, yeast, salt, sugar and olive oil, add a little water to mix to a dough. Knead in chopped dill, cover and leave to prove in a warm place for 20 mins.
Once proved, roll out the dough and cut into thin sticks. Place on an oiled baking tray and cook at 180C/gas mark 4 for 8-10 mins, or until golden brown. Cut the venison into very thin slices. Spoon the remoulade into the centre of the plate and then place the smoked trout slices on top followed by the Carpaccio. Then drizzle with a little lemon juice and olive oil, and season. Finish with the grissini and the fresh herbs.
Guinea Fowl with Golden Lemon Balm Risotto
2 corn-fed guinea fowl breasts, a little rapeseed oil
For the risotto: 1 shallot, finely chopped, 1 clove of garlic, crushed, 200g risotto rice, 500ml chicken stock, 50ml white wine, 20ml double cream,1 bunch lemon balm, 25g hard cheese, grated, such as Parmesan or Doddington's, 50g bacon lardons, cooked, 100g morel mushrooms, dried, if fresh are unavailable, 150ml chicken stock, already reduced, a pinch of tarregon, chopped, 20g unsalted butter, chilled, 2 slices of crispy Yoadwath Mill kiln-smoked or Parma ham
Preheat the oven to 180C/gas mark 4. Place the guinea fowl breasts onto a roasting tray, season and brush with a little oil. Roast for 12 mins, then allow to rest, while keeping warm.
To make the risotto: Fry off the chopped shallot and crushed garlic in a saucepan, add the risotto rice and white wine stirring continuously whilst the stock is added bit by bit, until cooked "al dente". Finish with chopped lemon balm, grated cheese, cream and bacon lardons. Crisp the ham under a grill for a couple of minutes. Heat the chicken stock, add a knob of chilled butter, a pinch of chopped tarragon and the morel mushrooms.
Place the risotto in the centre of the plate, slice the guinea fowl breast in two and place on top of the risotto, then finish with the crispy ham and the morel mushroom "gravy".
Smoked Pheasant Terrine
For the terrine: 6 cold-smoked pheasant breasts, 4 large savoy cabbage leaves, blanched, 2 large beetroot, cooked and peeled and cut into 1cm discs, 2 gelatine leaves, 200ml duck fat, 250g butter
For the dressing: 75g walnuts, chopped, 1 quince, diced into small pieces, 2 tsp grain mustard, 50ml walnut oil, 10g caster sugar, 15ml white wine vinegar, seasoning, Fresh garden herbs to garnish
Line a standard buttered terrine mould with cling film. Heat the duck fat in a heavy-bottomed pan, keeping at a temperature of 100-130C. Place the pheasant breast into the fat and cook for one hour. Slice each breast into three and keep warm.
Soak the leaf gelatine in cold water. Heat the butter and add the soaked gelatine, whisking until the mixture emulsifies. Dip the pheasant breast pieces into the butter / gelatine mixture and place a layer into the terrine. Repeat the process with the savoy cabbage, beetroot, then with the pheasant breast, cabbage and beetroot again, and so on.
Place another layer of cling film over the terrine and press overnight.
Mix the white wine vinegar with the sugar, until the sugar dissolves, add the mustard and whisk in the oil. Add the walnuts and chopped quince. Slice the terrine and place a slice in the centre of the plate, drizzle the dressing around and garnish with fresh herbs.
Loose Birds & Game by Andrew Pern (39.99) Face Publications. www.loosebirdsandgame.co.uk