An old favourite

RESTAURANT review: Amanda Wragg at Bradley’s Restaurant, Huddersfield. Pictures by Jonathan Gawthorpe.

Bradford-born Andrew Bradley cut his teeth at the Box Tree, then managed Clarks Bistro in Heaton in the 90s (I ate there almost weekly; it was years ahead of its time) before striking out with his eponymous Huddersfield bistro. More recently he bought and re-branded his former work place.

But tonight we’re in the one-time Conservative Club by the railway arches. Now, as then, he’s getting something right, because the joint is jumping at 6.30 on a Tuesday evening.

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It’s a curious thing; the exterior is sedate to the point of dull in a slightly heart-sinking “it’s going to be a bit dead in here” sort of way. But I opened the door and the clatter of folk having fun hit me. No hushed tones here, no whispered worshipping at the gastronomic temple of faddy food. Hooray!

I’m drawn to the stained glass epigrams set into the impressive Victorian windows, a nod to the restaurant’s former life as a mill – “better alone than in bad company” “a kindly word cools anger” and a personal favourite, “do well and dread no shame”. Bit late for that.

Dining is on two levels and if I have a quibble it’s that the ground floor is a bit gloomy and cavernous – we’re seated here but I ask to move to the lighter, airier level and it’s not an issue.

Making up the numbers tonight are groups of women, families and couples, plus a couple of tables full of office workers making a night of it.

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The buzz is contagious and it reminds us what a life-enhancing activity eating out is when it’s as sociable (and affordable) as this.

Service is unflustered, friendly and just the right side of brisk. The Prime Time Menu is outlined (ah, this explains the high headcount so early in the evening) and we look forward to three courses and half a bottle of wine for £20.

Feta cheese, pepper and green olive galette is pretty as a picture and the Mediterranean on a plate – tastes great too, fresh, sunny and transports me a million miles from the ring road.

Scallops with chorizo come with a justifiable £3.50 supplement and are four huge succulent orbs, perfectly cooked with a punchy sauce.

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We pay another few quid on top of the early bird for fillet of seabass, creamed leeks and balsamic, and lamb rump, dauphinoise potatoes and red wine jus. The fish is spot on, the skin beautifully crisp, the flesh flaking to the touch. The leeks accompaniment is creamy and simple, the balsamic reduction providing a welcome sharpness.

Lamb rump is served pink and is tender and full of flavour, the potatoes suitably luxurious, the whole plate nicely judged. There’s barely room for puds but that never stops us.

Apple, pear and custard crumble is a delight – quite subtle and surprisingly light, and mum’s parkin and Yummy Yorkshire liquorice ice cream hits the mark too.

Time’s marching on and there seems to be no let-up in people piling through the door – boy have they got it spot on here. It’s so refreshing to drop in on a long-established place like this and find it as good as ever.

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It’s unpretentious, with honest, value for money food sourced, cooked and served well and without faff.

Bradley’s Restaurant 84, Fitzwilliam Street, Huddersfield. HD1 5BB 01484 516773. www.bradleysrestaurant.co.uk

Open: Monday to Thursday 12-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Friday & Saturday 12-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm. Closed Sunday.

Prime Time Menu: Monday to Thursday 6pm-7.30pm, three courses with half a bottle of wine £19.95. Two courses with half a bottle of wine £15.95. Two courses with a small glass of wine £10.