Short on quantity, but a great taste

Martin Hickes puts squirrel to the taste test

Anyone who loves the flavour of gamey foods is sure to love squirrel, and it goes very well with a spicy flavoured red such as Shiraz or any nutty white grape, not surprisingly.

As a Yorkshireman, I'm always on the hunt for new tastes at tremendous value, and squirrel fits the bill perfectly – just don't let the sight on the plate put you off.

I tried the dish in Kent, a county well known for its rustic culinary flair – on my wedding anniversary, more out of novelty value than gastronomic choice, but would re-order it without hesitation.

While it is obviously short on quantity, its delicacy is part of its charm, but the over-powering sweet taste of the meat is its winning attribute.

The dainty sight of a squirrel’s rib cage on a plate may be off-putting to those with certain sensibilities, but see what you think.

Some chefs view squirrel with suspicion given its cuddly/rat-like connotations, but on flavour alone for me it beats rabbit and over-meaty kangaroo.

Well worth trying if you can track it down.