Star of the East

It’s perhaps best known for its racecourse, but there’s plenty in the historic East Yorkshire market town of Beverley to appeal to day trippers looking for an alternative to more obvious tourist hot spots.

In fact, Beverley has been described as a mini York, thanks to its quaint, cobbled streets; magnificent gothic Minster; two bustling marketplaces; glut of tea rooms, cafés and bistros; and wealth of independent shops. As in York, there were once a number of medieval gateways to the town, known as “bars”, but only one – North Bar – remains today.

In 2010, Beverley even acquired its own department store after Browns – something of an institution in York and Helmsley – converted and moved into a grade II listed building overlooking Saturday Market, which was formerly the town’s Picture Playhouse.

A year on, the store’s assistant manager Milena Leslie revealed that business is booming and explained why Browns saw Beverley as the ideal place to open a new store: “We were drawn to Beverley because it suits our existing customer profile and we already knew – from having the store in York – that we had a following in the East Yorkshire area. People do compare Beverley to York because it has the history, but also offers people a really diverse shopping experience.”

Elsewhere, top end high street stores, such as Barbour, Country Casuals and Joules, sit comfortably alongside locally-owned independent shops. Andrea Imison, who owns Gartons of Yorkshire, a florist, gift and homeware shop on North Bar Within, believes that it’s this balance that makes Beverley such an attractive proposition for shoppers and tourists alike.

“We have got some high street stores, but it’s not as if every shop is part of a chain. There are plenty of independent shops, where people can buy unique items and will get great, personal, customer service. The market on a Saturday also adds to the mix; it has lots of cottage industries selling their goods and produce,” said Andrea.

She added: “It’s a lovely setting to live and work in, with some beautiful, historic buildings. The centre is not too big and it’s all accessible, so visitors can get around it in a morning or afternoon, or make a day of it by spending time visiting one of the historic attractions and having lunch at one of the many fantastic locally-owned cafés or restaurants. White’s on North Bar Without is particularly good.”

Dotted around the town’s two marketplaces, and in the surrounding network of alleyways and narrow streets, are a wide variety of great places to eat. For Beverley resident Rebecca Aspin, the choice of eateries and shops on her doorstep was one of the reasons she and her young family relocated there.

Rebecca, who runs an online wedding business from home, said: “We’re spoilt for choice; I can happily while away a Saturday afternoon having lunch, then browsing the stalls in the market and the local shops. My favourites include Roberts and Speight for a picnic lunch; White’s restaurant for their fabulous set-course menu and The Cornerhouse pub on Norwood does the best breakfast. I love the mix of shops, from independent boutiques, like Sugarbird and Starfish, to the great charity shops, where I have been known to find a good bargain!”

For visitors keen to learn more about the town’s history, Beverley Minster is open daily and tours can be arranged. The Minster is the Parish Church of St. John and St. Martin, and stands on the site of a monastery founded by John, Bishop of York. The existing church was constructed around his tomb; work began in 1220 and was completed in 1425.

The Treasure House on nearby Champney Road is home to Beverley Art Gallery, where you’ll find the largest collection of paintings by celebrated local artist Frederick Elwell. Admission is free and the building also houses a museum; the local archives; and a lively café.

The Guildhall on Register Square, which was the traditional seat of government in Beverley from 1501 until the late 20th century, is open every Friday, free. Interesting features include a courtroom with a stucco ceiling and panels by Guiseppe Cortese, which date from 1762.

No trip to Beverley would be complete without a walk or even a picnic on the Westwood, one of several areas of ancient, common pastureland that surround the town. On a summer’s day, ice creams from the iconic Burgess of Beverley stand on the Westwood are extremely popular among the many families walking dogs, flying kites or simply spreading out on a blanket to enjoy the sunshine.

‘Uninteresting’ – but very interesting

The name Beverley comes from the Anglo-Saxon word ‘Beoferlic’ – meaning ‘beaver clearing in the woods’ – and is thought to be a reference to the beavers that used to live on the River Hull as it passed the town.

When John, Bishop of York, retired to Beverley in 718AD, he lived in his own monastery in what was known as the Wood of Deira, an ancient name for East Yorkshire.

During the Civil War, Charles I had his headquarters at Beverley as he lay siege to Hull.

In 1868, acclaimed novelist Anthony Trollope unsuccessfully stood for Parliament in Beverley. Upset by his failure, he famously described it as “that uninteresting town”.

In the Second World War, there was a devastating bomb attack on Flemingate, which resulted in several deaths and injuries. If ‘Old Mother Riley’ hadn’t been showing at the Marble Arch Cinema on Butcher Row that day, many more lives would have been lost.

Once the town’s thriving industrial heart, the area surrounding Beverley Beck became rundown during the latter part of the 20th century but has enjoyed a revival in recent times as a popular, waterside, residential area.

Horse racing has taken place in the town since the sixteenth century and continues to make a significant contribution to the local economy.