Native farm breeds continue comeback

Native breeds of farm livestock are continuing their comeback, thanks partly to TV chefs.

The Rare Breeds Survival Trust has published its 2010 Watchlist, showing increasing numbers for a range of both cattle and pigs.

The headline story in cattle is the British White, which has made the important step from category 5 of the RBST's watchlist (minority breeds) to category 6 (other native breeds).

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According to the British White Cattle Society, the breed is probably more successful now than at any time in its long history. It can claim direct links with the ancient indigenous wild cattle of Great Britain and today's breed can be traced back as far as 1553.

Andrew Fisher, a British Whites specialist at Pateley Bridge, has 25 cows which produce bulls and heifers for further breeding – in pedigree herds and in commercial beef herds. He also buys pedigree store calves for fattening for rare meats specialist Weeton's of Harrogate.

He said this week: "They are easy to look after and good rough grazers. The land stewardship schemes have been a factor. But mainly the demand is down to consumers asking what their meat is and where it comes from and looking for quality."

When the RBST was founded, in 1973, many old breeds had already disappeared and others were surviving only because hobby farmers gave them a subsidised home. Now the professionals are buying them back.

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The latest RBST report says there have been a number of significant movements in the pig categories, with the Middle White moving from category 2 (endangered) to 3 (vulnerable). That leaves just one breed, the British Lop, officially categorised as endangered. Other breeds that have improved their numbers and moved down the categories include the British Saddleback, Tamworths, Welsh and Berkshires.

The Middle White, first recognised as a breed in 1852, is distinguished by its short squashed-looking nose. In the first part of the 20th century, it was the standard butcher's pig, because it cut into the small joints favoured at the time, and was sometimes known as the London Porker.

Its decline started with the Second World War and meat rationing, which saw a concentration on the bacon pig. However, a small band of dedicated breeders ensured the continuation of the breed and now its qualities are much appreciated by top restaurants.

In the sheep sector, there were no dramatic changes but the Oxford Down is "recovering" after slipping from "minority" to "at risk" last year. It fell out of favour because it grows slowly and lean but demand is now up for the same reasons.

The trust has appointed two new field officers to give members practical support. The northern officer is Ruth Dalton, based near Kendal. For more information, contact RBST on 024 7669 6551.