Plunkets restaurant, housed in a beautiful 1642 timbered building on High Petergate was a York institution. There was an outcry last year at its closure and proposals for Leeds Brewery to open their second bar in the city. Here we are in 2016, the furore over and the Eagle and Child is well and truly open.
The new bar is certainly spacious, but on a miserable January night, the three floors of the charming timbered building are vacuous. This place needs people and lots of them; perhaps not a problem on a Friday night and for their sakes I hope not. It is well worth the climb to the third floor just to see the amazing architecture of the historic building
Dribs and drabs of customers come and go, pulled in no doubt by the impressive range of Leeds Brewery cask, keg and bottled ales on offer. The wines on offer are pretty good too, so no complaints on that score.
There is a decent menu that doesn’t quite fulfil its promise. With only six customers eating, it took an inordinate amount of time to for the food to arrive. When it did it was OK, though a dry chickpea burger went back to the kitchen virtually untouched.
Is the loss of Plunkets and this new bar the city’s gain? Leeds Brewery also owns the highly successful Duke of York in Kings Square, so maybe the Eagle and Child just needs a little more time.
• Eagle & Child, 9 High Petergate, York, YO1 7EN. 01904 631536, eagleandchildyork.co.uk
Open Sunday, 11am-10.30pm; Monday to Wednesday, 11am-11pm; Thursday to Saturday, 11am-12am.
DRINKS SELECTION 5/5