Milliner's creation turns heads on Emmerdale

Marie Flanagan is descended from generations of milliners and has no plan to stop. Catherine Scott reports.

Marie Flanagan never set out to be a milliner. She studied fashion and textiles in London in the late 1960s before moving into teaching and lecturing,

But she turned her back on her creative career for a number of years.

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“I was teaching in various settings and ended up doing a lot of work in mental health. I decided to train as a counseller to make it easier for me and the clients,” explains Marie who ended up as an advocate for the mental health charity MIND.

The hat created by Marie for EmmerdaleThe hat created by Marie for Emmerdale
The hat created by Marie for Emmerdale

However, she started to miss her creative work and found working in the field of mental health getting tougher. She decided to leave and go back into fashion and textiles.

The while out shopping one day in Harrogate, the mum of two had an epiphany.

“I was in a shop and I saw this brown felt hat with lots of feathers on it,” recalls Marie.

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“I tried it on and couldn’t believe the way it made me feel. I felt like a completely different character – it was a really powerful experience.”

Milliner Marie Flanagan working on some of her creationo sin her studio in HalifaxMilliner Marie Flanagan working on some of her creationo sin her studio in Halifax
Milliner Marie Flanagan working on some of her creationo sin her studio in Halifax

She embarked on a three-year millinery course in Huddersfield – one of just a handful in the country.

“As a result when I should have been retiring I was opening a hat shop in Huddersfield,” says Marie.

“It just took off. I did lots of advertising to start with but I soon found out that the best way to get clients was through word of mouth.”

Marie feels that fate has played a big part in her success.

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“When we were just starting out we called in to get some supplies in Oldham before going over the Manchester to buy mannequins. But my Oldham supplier said he had just taken delivery of stock from Royal milliner Phillip Somerville who had just retired,” says Marie.

“He had Dior mannequins, hat blocks used for the Queen Mother and Grace Jones and amazing feathers from Germany.”

The fêted designer made hats for the rich and famous – everyone from Kylie Minogue to Joan Collins – as well as members of the Royal family, including the Queen and Princess Diana.

“It was serendipity. I just looked at my husband and knew that we had to buy the lot no matter what it cost.”

The hat created by Marie for EmmerdaleThe hat created by Marie for Emmerdale
The hat created by Marie for Emmerdale
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But it might not all be down to luck. Marie recently discovered that millinery is in her genes.

“A family member from a small town in Galway Ireland sent me a census from 1901 on which my great Aunt Margaret was registered as a milliner. This great aunt is the great great grandmother to the milliner Mark Burke from Galway who was trained by Phillip Treacy also from Galway.”

And it really must be in the blood as one of Marie’s daughter, Molly, is also a milliner with her own hat label, Good Golly Miss Molly.

Marie recently moved out of her Huddersfield shop to a studio in Halifax where she makes bespoke and couture creations, some which can take up to three weeks to make.

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“Women often come to me with an outfit for the races or a wedding and want a hat to go with it. We start with the shape and I talk them through the occasion and what they want to achieve.

“I get the basic hats made first and then when they come for a second fitting we talk about embellishments from feathers to beadwork and I love embroidering hats.”

Milliner Marie Flanagan working on some of her creationo sin her studio in HalifaxMilliner Marie Flanagan working on some of her creationo sin her studio in Halifax
Milliner Marie Flanagan working on some of her creationo sin her studio in Halifax

Marie says she has found a surprising use for her counselling techniques.

“People are often nervous about wearing a hat, particularly mothers of the bride and I often find myself using some of the skills I learnt in counselling in these situations.

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“The first thing I do is sit then down in front of a mirror and that can be daunting for some people. But never underestimate the power of a hat. It is my job to make the person feel fabulous and that gives them confidence.”

Marie recalls one client who was undergoing chemotherapy.

“She was mother of the bride but she didn’t want to draw attention to the fact she was undergoing cancer treatment and had no hair. She was really nervous about the whole day, I designed this amazing silk turban for her. She said she felt incredible and had the best day. That makes me feel very proud,”

She often finds herself drawing on her fashion background as well to help people choose entire outfits.

“Some people are nervous about colour and I can help them from start to finish if they want.”

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Marie’s hats have been seen at all sorts of events from Royal Garden parties to Ascot and her hats have travelled worldwide to Dubai America and Europe.

Marie also makes hats for theatre production and just last week had one of her creations play a starring role on the small screen in an episode of Emmerdale.

“Emmerdale’s costume designer Sue Sheehan approached me to make a very special creation for a storyline based around the comedic character Kerry Wyatt,” she explained.

Viewers of Emmerdale last Thursday will have seen Kerry being given a hat designed my Marie by mistake for her 40th birthday.

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“It is a comedic scene and so I had to be careful to get the balance right as Kerry isn’t known for her taste, but I think it worked well,” says Marie.

The Emmerdale creation will be on show at the Emmerdale Studio Experience in Leeds from the end of July.

Marie works by appointment only. Contact her on 07712 656 579 [email protected] www.marieflanagan.co.uk

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