Golden memories

Bulgaria's Black Sea coast might not bask in the warm glow of praise from tourist reviews on the travel websites, but it will put more power into your pound than most resorts.

Still trying to establish itself as a destination of choice, the country continues to suffer from a rather grim, grey reputation, almost as though nothing has altered since the Communists ruled the roost.

But beggars can't be choosers. We set aside the reviewers' prejudices and headed, hopefully, in the direction of Golden Sands, eight miles north of Bulgaria's second largest city, Varna.

Our first glimpse of Bulgaria came by dawn's early light. Our family party, including a two-year-old and a four-year-old, transferred to Golden Sands from Burgas airport, which involved a three-hour minibus ride in the dead of night. Normally, you would fly to Varna, which is much closer.

Bulgaria at dawn can be a daunting proposition. This was the People's Republic of Bulgaria, the Soviets' closest political ally and possibly the staunchest pillar of the Warsaw Pact. Some of the architecture reflects this past, including a gigantic granite tablet depicting Soviet soldiers meeting some Bulgarian peasant women, which looms over the coastal road in Varna.

Locals wanted to pull it down in 1989 but, according to our tour guide, they couldn't be bothered.

Our hotel was the Helios Spa and Resort, a sumptuous modern building set among Golden Sands' coastal forest. We noticed that online moaners have berated the food, the 120 concrete steps down to the town and occasional surliness of the staff.

The steps were, indeed, a problem when we returned to the hotel one night with a load of shopping and a sleeping toddler in the pushchair. Looking for a way round, we walked for nearly two hours, got lost and ended up trying to use the position of the moon to find the quickest way back.

Otherwise, we were perfectly happy. Our stay was on all-inclusive terms and the food, though different to our usual fare, was absolutely fine. There was a big choice of dishes, many of them geared towards German visitors, by far and away the biggest group in Golden Sands. Our room was huge, and the view of the Black Sea from the balcony was to die for.

Disappointingly, the hotel's noted seafood restaurant was closed during our stay, with no warning beforehand. The advertising pamphlet also doesn't tell you about some of the restrictions imposed on all-inclusive customers.

Health and safety regulations are more lax than they are in Britain, so the sight of drinking glasses next to children's swimming pools, and people smoking in restaurants, can be a shock. There's also a huge, now derelict, building right next to the Helios.

But the hotel's three swimming pools were clean and tidy and the staff were wonderful, particularly the "animation team" who didn't press us to play volleyball every afternoon. Instead, they bonded very warmly and expertly with our children, who fell head over heels in love with a couple of them.

However, some of the furniture in the team's HQ did leave something to be desired. First, my husband's chair collapsed underneath him, and then mine did the same. Little harm done, except to our pride.

We had the staff pretty much to ourselves because, although our stay was at the beginning of the high season for Golden Sands, other visitors were fairly thin on the ground.

Golden Sands is essentially one seaside street about a mile in length, packed with shops, stalls, restaurants and bars. To one side lies the beautiful, crystal-clear Black Sea. To the other, the resort's hotels are set in idyllic, dense, rising woodland.

Some of these hotels aim for top-end Germans and Israelis with plenty of money in their pockets, but many other outlets lure the Brits abroad with impossibly cheap cocktail deals and "Sky Sports shown here" signs. Repeated attempts to persuade you into bars and restaurants can irritate, but there are some very good cocktail bars and restaurants if you take the time to explore.

A beer is typically about three levs (1.50), but the quantity of ale you get for your money can vary. You'll always get at least a pint, but on some occasions we were presented with huge, foaming two-pint pots, la Munich Beer Festival. Cocktails are always two-for-one and you'll usually pay about 2 for a good quality one.

A family of four can eat very well for about 60-70 levs in total (30-35) including drinks, with all tastes catered for. Pizzas are a speciality, often made right in front of you and costing 5 for a large one.

Varna, 20 minutes away, gives the visitor a refreshing flavour of Bulgaria's history. Varna Archaeological Museum is one of the city's best treasures. It houses the Gold of Varna, jewellery and gifts which were found in a mass grave underneath the

city and said to be the oldest gold found in the world.

Varna's dolphinarium, the only one in Bulgaria, is a bit run-down but well worth the entrance fee.

The jewel in Varna's crown is its sea garden, a vast space containing an open-air theatre, aquarium, museum, zoo and ice-skating rink. Despite the stray dogs and strange men trying to sell you currency, this is a very friendly city, unspoilt and with plenty to interest families.

The weather for our stay was hot, with thunderstorms at night, and the sea is easily warm enough to play in.

Golden Sands is a first-class resort, pitched perfectly for either a family or a group of younger holidaymakers.

But it could lose that charm if it gives in to pressure to become the new Faliraki with hordes of rowdy visitors.

FACTFILE

Julie Firth was a guest of Balkan Holidays, which offers seven nights' B&B at the four-star Helios Spa and Resort in Golden Sands, from 377, based on two sharing, including flights transfers and supplements from Manchester. Reservations 0845 520 1263 and

www.balkanholidays.co.uk

YP MAG 14/8/10