Life after the wall

The fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 ranks among the most dramatic political events in recent European history. One consequence, doubtless unforeseen at the time, was to create a whole new tourist industry for the newly re-united country.

More than two decades on, the Cold War and the 28 years of the Berlin Wall still loom over the city, but now the menace has been replaced by curiosity and a fascination with bygone – yet recent – events. When it was in place, the wall symbolised the divide between the superpowers but since it has gone it has given the re-united city a new source

of tourism.

Not much of the wall remains these days, but it never seems very far away. Some sections do remain in place, as reminders of the era. It has provided a source of inspiration for a generation of Berlin artists and their work is available through a host of shops. Fragments of the wall have also found a second life, appearing as anything from paperweights to fridge magnets.

Even the city's upmarket department store, KaDaWee, is unable to overlook the opportunity, though their selection includes a Berlin version of a Steiff teddy bear clutching a section of the wall,

rather than some of the more mundane offerings available elsewhere.

While the Berlin Wall may be impossible to overlook, it is by no means all the city has to offer visitors. Its 20th century history may be complicated and uncomfortable, but today it's a fascinating and cosmopolitan backdrop for city break tourists. We spent a busy three days here and could easily have stayed longer.

It is a large city but many of the big name attractions, the Brandenburg Gate and Reichstag for example, are central.

The public transport also helps – buses, trams, underground and local trains provide easy access between districts. A Berlin Card for a set fee allows unlimited travel for between 24 and 72 hours, along with reduced entrance fees to some museums.

Whether or not that represents good value would depend on usage, but for visitors unfamiliar with the ticketing system on four different networks the convenience of one universal ticket is beyond question.

The question of value inevitably crops up whenever capital cities are involved, but for British holidaymakers the euro exchange rate adds further pressure.

In an attempt to offset that problem, we booked an apartment rather than a hotel. Choose carefully and there's little practical difference. We paid a similar rate to a modest hotel and ended up with a modern and stylish apartment only five minutes' walk from the fashionable Kurfurstendamm.

As apartments have basic kitchens, it meant we were able to offset the cost of eating out for some meals, maybe not ideal but a practical way to keep costs under control. Even then, it doesn't have to be impossibly expensive to eat out. It's definitely not traditional German, but we found an Asian caf serving substantial main courses at around e3 and a Burrito bar just off the central Alexanderplatz serving meals for e5 or e6, cheap by any standards.

Another financial advantage to Berlin is that many of the tourist attractions are free. Use the public transport pass to travel out to Bernauer Strasse to see some of the wall intact. Alongside is a visitor centre with free access, which tells the story of the wall in an easy to digest format, along with access to a viewing platform to see the wall from above.

Checkpoint Charlie, the scene of a notorious stand-off between American and Soviet tanks, has been reconstructed and the so-called Topographie des Terrors is difficult to ignore.

That is the area where much of the repressive Nazi regime was based and its prisoners tortured. The buildings were flattened in the post-war era and after being forgotten for several decades,

an outdoor museum now stands on the site with excavation work in progress and a new indoor museum expected to open this year.

Like most of Berlin, the Reichstag was badly damaged during the Second World War and then fell into East Germany when the city was divided. As recently as the 1990s, work started on replacing its original domed roof with a modern alternative and that takes the form of a dramatic glass construction, the work of British architect Sir Norman Foster.

Entry is free and although security is tight, meaning the queues stretch for long distances even outside the obvious tourist high season, it is well worth the visit both for the panoramic views of the city and the dome itself, which takes visitors to the top via a walkway which snakes around the frame.

Doors open at 8am and the worst of the queues can be avoided by turning up early. But even for those who have to wait a long time, its difficult to imagine that many would leave disappointed by the experience.

A fear of flying brings its own obvious restrictions in terms of holiday destinations.

With a reluctant air passenger in the household, we chose to travel to Berlin by car and while it is a substantial journey, we found it a successful alternative to flying. One major advantage is that the route between Europoort, Rotterdam, and Berlin can be completed almost without leaving the motorway, so although there is a large distance to cover the route is fast and uncomplicated.

We also sailed overnight from Hull, using P&O's daily service which meant we arrived fully refreshed after a night's sleep to start the drive through Holland and Germany. Likewise, on the return journey the ferry provides a stress-free end to the day after a long motorway journey, with a choice of two restaurants, a caf and a choice of bars. Anyone wanting to take a car into central Berlin will need to buy

an environmental pass, however.

They are available from hundreds of garages in the area and we paid e5, though they can be ordered online in advance at extra cost.

Remember to take the vehicle log-book, however, because that contains details of emissions which will be needed before the pass can be issued.

Those caught driving without the correct pass face a e40 fine.

Berlin – getting there and getting around

We booked Artus apartments in Kantstrasse through Splendia, at www.splendia.com

Ferry crossings were from Hull to Rotterdam with P&O, booking available at www.poferries.com

Berlin Welcome Card offers up to 72 hours unlimited public transport use.

A museum access card is also available, but check as many have free admission.

See classic German design at the Bauhaus Archive, www.bauhaus.de for details.

Enjoy free access to the Reichstag dome, 8am to 10pm.