Norwegians would...

The Norwegians have an unwritten rule that they always "do something outside" on Sundays. Whether it be a bracing hike, heading off on a cycle ride, sailing down the fjords or just a simple stroll through a park, there is no equivalent of a lazy British Sunday afternoon falling asleep in front of Antiques Roadshow following a heavy roast dinner.

Given the splendour of some of their achingly beautiful scenery it is no surprise. Cruising along the famous Lysefjord – one of the country's most stunning landscapes – you instantly develop an urge to be entranced in nature every day of the week, let alone just one.

It is hard knowing which way to look when surrounded by imposing mountains rising high above you on one side, rolling green hills dotted with cascading waterfalls on the other, and the horizon in the distance promising yet more unknown and dramatic delights around the very next contour.

Fortunately, having been ushered directly into Fantahala – an eerie mountain cave which instantly conjures up images of the escaping vagabonds after which it is named – and arrived at the base of the legendary Pulpit Rock, a formation which towers more than 600 metres above, we turn around and head back towards Stavanger and a second opportunity descends to absorb it all.

It has to be said, though, we have taken the easy route. The real way in which to witness Lysefjord at its finest is to make the two-and-a-half-hour hike up to the top of the Pulpit Rock – or Preikestolen – where thousands scramble each year to be able to command stunning views across the whole region.

Our base – Stavanger – is the fourth biggest city in Norway behind the capital Oslo, Bergen and Trondheim, and it is seen as an ideal location from which to explore the rugged beauty of the south-west of the Scandinavian country.

However, the charming port alone has plenty itself and, for us on a weekend break having flown in from Newcastle on a Friday morning, it kept us well entertained.

The Lysefjord trip is a must but the city, with a population of 120,000 and its traffic-free centre, seemingly unveils little delights around every corner.

With its charming interwinding cobbled streets, there is an eclectic and vivid mix of shops to wander around with so many individual offerings – ranging from wooden crafts and pottery, to glass and linen – that you sort of feel sullied when you do finally come across the obligatory McDonald's.

There are shopping malls with more common chains, but vre Holmegate is its most colourful street, known locally as Stavanger's own mini-Notting Hill for its cool vibe, including Sjokolaepiken, a luxurious specialist chocolate shop, and the chilled-out Boker & Borst caf opposite where you can dust down books from their wonky shelves or play chess on the terrace while enjoying a quiet beer.

The narrow boulevards quickly weave their way down to the picturesque harbour where you can while away hours soaking up the sun in the numerous pubs and bars, while the impressive Stavanger Cathedral – dating back to 1125 – looms above.

Our hotel, the Radisson Blu Atlantic Hotel, was perfectly situated just a couple of minutes walk from the centre and offered fine views of the splendid Breviavatnet, the stretching lake and its fountains which dominates the city's tranquil park.

Stavanger – named European Capital of Culture with Liverpool in 2008 and showing its growing appeal by attracting world music stars Whitney Houston and Snoop Dogg for concerts last month – may previously have had a rather unmerited reputation of being solely distinguished by the grime of oil and gas.

Undoubtedly, much of the city's recent income is built on that industry since the first oilfield was discovered in the North Sea, at Ekofisk, in 1969, but, aside from the Norwegian Petroleum Museum, you would never know.

To the left bank of the harbour, a short stroll up a windy street brings you to the quaint Old Stavanger and northern Europe's largest and best preserved wooden house settlement with some of the little white homes – many still in use – dating back to the late 1700s.

Along here is The Norwegian Canning Museum which ordinarily would not seem like the most exhilarating of experiences. However, the fascinating insight into the region's other once-prolific industry – sardine production – cannot be missed off any itinerary as the living museum shows the process from start to finish.

Within a few minutes' train journey south from Stavanger is Sandnes which boasts another intriguing museum – Jaermuseet – which is intended to fascinate children but which is equally as absorbing for any adult who wants to join in the fun.

It offers visitors the chance to learn about the modern history of the region but also acts as a science centre – through various guises you can test against each other the powers of letting your mind relax, reaction speeds or strength examinations although entering the fabulous planetarium to gaze up at the stars is a favourite of many.

While in Sandnes we grabbed the opportunity to enjoy a gorgeous lunch at the award-winning Charles & De – think a chic Norwegian style Bettys – where the locally-sourced prawn sandwich proved divine while further along the coast at Tananger, the perfectly-located Hummeren Hotell, with its breathtaking views of its own bay, provides a highly-recommended fish soup.

The region, and Norway as a country, is undoubtedly expensive with a glass of beer – note glass and not pint, as a typically frugal Yorkshireman spotted the 0.4l sign – sets you back, on average, 7 with dining out equally as pricey.

But Stavanger has so much to offer. It may be the most wooden city in

northern Europe in the physical sense but far from it when it comes to spirit and appeal.

Norway fact file

Dave Craven flew with Norwegian airline Widere from Newcastle to Stavanger. Widere flies to Stavanger three times a week from Newcastle, with return fares starting at about 139. Widere's Explore Norway ticket offers one or two weeks' unlimited travel to the top 35 destinations within Norway, from 312, including free international connections from Newcastle.

www.wideroe.no/explorenorway

He stayed at Radisson Blu Atlantic Hotel www.radissonblu.com/

www.regionstavanger.com

YP MAG 3/7/10