Small is beautiful

Iguana soup. We had asked for a traditional Aruban delicacy and here it was. In all its revolting glory.

There was just one member of our group brave enough to try it and it wasn't a pretty sight. The iguana had clearly decided to make it as difficult as possible for the diner, and a mixture of little bones and tough flesh meant it looked more like a bush tucker trial than a culinary delight.

But Aruban food should not be judged by iguana soup. In fact, according to our guide, the animal is an endangered species and it's actually illegal to hunt and kill them. Maybe that's why it was a "special" rather than a fixture on the main menu at local Papiamento restaurant Nos Cunucu.

The restaurant, an old Aruban farmhouse situated down a backstreet north of the capital Oranjestad, typically serves authentic Creole Aruban cuisine, such as goat stew, cornbread pancakes and chicken and pumpkin soup, in friendly surroundings.

Vegetarians like myself are not naturally catered for in Aruba, which typically serves steaks, fish and seafood. However, the restaurants we went to were happy to create a tasty, if unadventurous, meat-free meal when warned in advance.

Charlie's Bar, a meeting place filled with decades of international memorabilia, particularly stood out for its creative vegetarian thinking. Although there wasn't an option on the menu, the chef created a delicious bean and lentil stew.

The romantic Bucuti Beach Resort also came up trumps, creating a meat-free version of the traditional Keshi Yena (a type of chicken casserole) for me when we visited its beach-side restaurant. Passions Beach Bar and Restaurant and Pinchos Grill and Bar were also favourites among our group. The tiny island of Aruba, which measures just 19 miles by six, is the western-most of the Dutch Antilles, 15 miles off the northern coast of Venezuela. It is generally a well-kept secret in the UK, although American tourists have been coming in their droves for decades. This month Thomson is launching direct flights from Manchester to encourage more UK visitors.

The Dutch captured the island from the Spanish in 1636. Today the American influence can be seen in the shape of huge casinos and fast food chains such as Wendy's, Taco Bell and McDonald's, it's easy to see why certain parts of Aruba have been compared to Las Vegas. But away from the bright lights is a stunning mix of natural beauty – powdery white sand, vivid turquoise waters and the Arikok National Park, located in the north-eastern part of Aruba.

Temperatures typically hover around the 30-degree mark, with very little rain – even in the wet season – there is a constant light breeze, and it's also out of the hurricane belt.

The beaches and watersports are the main attractions. We also went on a four-hour snorkelling trip on a catamaran which took us to three different sites around the island, including the striking Second World War Antilla shipwreck, which, at 400 feet long, is one of the Caribbean's largest shipwrecks and now home to many marine life forms, including an abundance of tropical fish. But there is also plenty to keep active visitors occupied. A drive round the island will take you to all the key points of interest, including the California Lighthouse, churches and several natural bridges. For the adventurous, a bone-rattling off-roading experience along the rugged north west coast is recommended. You will also notice the famous divi-divi trees, which have come to symbolise the island. The twisted tree is permanently bent towards the west, in the direction of the trade winds. Handily this is also the direction of all the island's hotels so lost tourists need only follow the direction of the bent trees to find their way home.

There are a few museums including the Aruba Aloe Museum and Factory where visitors can see the production process first hand from aloe vera leaf to finished Aruba Aloe lotions. The aloe industry is the island's oldest. The aloe vera plant was introduced in Aruba in 1840 and went on to cover two-thirds of Aruba's surface. The island went on to become the world's largest aloe exporter, and although that is no longer so, the products are unique to the island.

If you could design the perfect Caribbean island, you would probably create a place like Aruba. It's no wonder that its slogan, which also appears on every car number plate, is One Happy Island. Just stay away from the iguana soup.

Geting there – direct from Manchester

Thomson seven night holidays in Aruba, staying at the Renaissance Aruba Resort & Casino from 975 per person, based on two people sharing, departing Manchester June 11. Price includes B&B accommodation, direct flights and transfers. www.thomson.co.uk or call 0871 2313234.

Information: www.aruba.com.

Bewley's Hotel Manchester Airport has a Park, Stay and Fly package from 89. www.bewleyshotels.com or LoCall 0845 234 59 59.

YP MAG 1/5/10