Bringing in the harvest

Chile is no stranger to earthquakes, which is possibly why the huge 8.8 quake which hit two weeks ago has had a serious, although not a devastating impact on the wine industry.

The main force of the earthquake hit south of the capital Santiago, which is where most of the vineyards and wineries are based. Of course any loss of life and damage to buildings is a tragedy, but in the emails and messages I have received from Chilean wine producers there is optimism and a tremendous feeling of getting on with the job of clearing up and getting ready for harvest.

Jos Manuel Ortega, who owns the O Fournier winery in the wine region of Maule, had just left Santiago for Spain when the quake struck. He then spent the next few days trying to get back into Chile, eventually driving over the Andes to see the damage at his property which is 60 kilometres from the epicentre of the earthquake.

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There was extensive damage to houses on the property, including a 19th century guest house which was reduced to a pile of rubble. In the winery, empty tanks had buckled and cracked, causing serious damage and barrels had fallen from their stacks, breaking and spilling wine. The earthquake has also reshaped his vineyard as several metres of it fell into the river.

But thankfully there was no loss of life and, now just a week away from harvest Jos Manuel reports that they are fighting back, clearing up and working towards getting the crop in.

Other wineries have also lost tanks and barrels, and in some cases the smell of spilt wine fills the air, although ingenious methods have been used to prevent loss. At one winery a cracked tank was rapidly leaking wine, and in the absence of electrical power it was not possible to pump it out. Eventually most of the tank of top-quality Cabernet was saved by the sheer hard work of the workforce. Of course not all companies were affected by the earthquake. The loss at one Casablanca winery amounted to three bottles which fell off a shelf in the shop.

The overall loss of wine is estimated at 125m litres, of bulk, bottled and aging wine which is about 12 per cent of the annual crop, worth around 160m and is slightly more than the total amount of Chilean wine imported into the UK last year. Undoubtedly this will affect supplies of some wines, but bottling lines are back up and running at many wineries and with a new crop ready to be brought in, I expect that Chile's wine industry will bounce back very quickly.

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In the meanwhile it is possible to donate to Chile's earthquake appeal (details in Grapevine), but by far the best way to help is to buy and enjoy Chilean wine.

Robert Hoult (Hoults Wine, 01484 510700) will give 5 to the Chilean Relief fund from every case of Chilean wine sold. His range includes some excellent wines such as the great value, soft, fruity Concha y Toro Merlot 2009 at 5.99 (4.75 by the case) and the upmarket, organic, small production, meaty, concentrated Emiliana Coyam 2008 at 15.99 (14.50 by the case).

Even without a donation, buying Chilean wine is the best way to support the industry there, and here is my selection of the best to load into your trolley.

Marks and Spencer has an excellent pair of wines under their Casa Leona label, which come from Via la Rosa in Cachapoal. Now on offer, down from 6.49 to 4.99, the Chardonnay 2009 offers clear, clean melon and minerally fruit, uncluttered by oak and with enough weight to pour alongside a plate of creamy pasta. The Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 is deep and lush with black fruits and integrated, supple tannins. This is perfect to team up with a steak but is cheap enough for a Wednesday night supper.

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Also good at Marks and Spencer is the crisp, citrus and pineapple-tinged fruit of Tierra y Hombre Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (6.49) which is sourced from the dramatically beautiful Indomita winery in Casablanca. Closer to the coast, the cool climate of Leyda provides the perfect place to grow soft-textured, elegant Pinot Noir from Secano Estate Pinot Noir 2008, 7.49.

Waitrose (Harrogate, Otley, Sheffield and Willerby) has a terrific range of Chilean wines, including the well-made, food friendly, Errazuriz Max Reserva Chardonnay 2007 from Casablanca (down from 9.99 to 6.49 until March 16).

While you are there, make sure you pick up a couple of bottles of Cousio Macul's Antiguas Reservas Cabernet Sauvignon (down from 8.99 to 6.69 until March 16). This is a slightly old-fashioned style of Cabernet, which relinquishes some of the fruit-forward style of many wines to focus on savoury complexity. It needs food but is absolutely wonderful with grilled red meat and casseroles. Wait until next week, starting on March 17 to buy the bright, elegant fruit of Errazuriz Estate Cabernet Sauvignon from Aconcagua which comes down from 7.99 to 5.99 until April 13.

Not on offer, but still terrific value is Dona Dominga's Gran Reserva Cabernet 2007 (Waitrose 9.99) which oozes deep cassis fruit without too much oak.

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Majestic has an offer on one of Chile's best value, most gluggable wines, Casillero del Diablo Carmenre 2008, now down from a fairly optimistic 7.49 to a great value 4.99 until March 22. Carmenre has emerged as Chile's signature grape variety and its deep bramble fruit with a touch of spice provides a welcome change from the cassis-laden Cabernets.

Its partner Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc wines offer the same deal, but make sure you buy the 2009 vintage to get the brightest flavours. As a step up in quality, Winemaker's Lot Syrah from Quinta de Maipo, Lot 401 2008, and Winemaker's Lot Chardonnay Llanuras de Camarico 2008, both from the big but quality-minded stables of Concha y Toro offer rounded, elegant fruit at 7.49 on multibuy until April 26.

Also worth picking up from Majestic is a bottle of Casa Marin's fabulous Syrah 2006 from the Miramar vineyard in San Antonio Valley (Majestic 19.99). This small, chic property is within sight of the sea, and while it is on top of a cliff, there are reports of some damage here, so supplies might be interrupted for a while.

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