Invest in a new vintage

Reds seem to shine more than whites, although there are still some exceptional wines among the whites, particularly from the top growers. Prices have risen for famous names but the good news is that the flavours of wines in the lower ranks are so opulent and full of fruit that they represent outstanding value for money.

If you like good Pinot Noir but have been nervous of splashing out on Burgundy because of past disappointments, perhaps now it is time to throw caution to the wind. A mild spring in 2009 encouraged early flowering and apart from some hail which swept through the Côtes de Nuits in mid May, losing some potential crop, the fruit set well. A fine June, with occasional heat spikes was followed by a more variable July, in particular during the second week when substantial rain could have caused rot.

Cool evenings balanced out the warm days and by August the weather was glorious with a mini heat wave driving flavour development and ripeness.

Picking started early on September 2 in the Mâconnais and September 6 in Cotes de Nuits. Overall grapes showed good levels of sugars, although there is some concern about levels of acidity.

The real stars are the wines that made the most of the sunshine, without losing their vital acidity which will help preserve the wines and allow the flavours to age and develop. Tannins are ripe and supple, and my overall impression is that this is a luscious, attractive vintage.

Most of the 2009 vintage is still in cask, although growers were already bottling some of the Villages wines. If you decide to buy now, you will need to put your money up front and hope that everyone is still in business by the time it comes round to delivering the wine in September.

This has been a problem in the past with some merchants, so deal with people you have dealt with before, or with well-recognised merchants – never buy from someone who rings you and offers a surprisingly good price. If the deal looks too good to be true, it probably is.

You will pay only for the wine when you order; duty and VAT will be charged when you take delivery and some prices include delivery. Some don’t so check when you order.

Why buy Burgundy while it is still in cask? For the simple reason that it is so difficult to find the right growers’ wines later. This is their major selling exercise and in a few months time, stock will have been allocated around the world Burgundy produces tiny amounts of wine compared with Bordeaux, so if you want some, it is best to reserve it early.

Locally, Bon Coeur in Masham is offering a good range from 2009, and past experience has shown that prices are fairly keen from this merchant, who operates out of a farmhouse rather than an upmarket shop. I particularly enjoyed the wines from brothers David and Nicolas Rossignol who are the driving force at Domaine Rossignol-Trapet, based in Gevrey-Chambertin. They have been working to biodynamic principles since 1997 and have seen their vines grow stronger and more resistant to drought and pests.

The wines have a particular vibrancy of flavour. I enjoyed the Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes (£235 in bond) for its concentrated, pure fruit and elegant balance, but 1er Cru Clos Prieur (£445 in bond) is exceptional for its taut, precise tannic structure that will take longer to reach its peak.

Bon Coeur is also offering an exuberant and juicy Bourgogne Pinot Noir from Bertrand Ambroise at a bargain £95 (in bond) and a seductive and silky Vosne Romanée from Domaine des Perdrix at £320 in bond.

Contact Bon Coeur on 01765 688200 or check their website www.bcfw.co.uk

The House of Townend also have a Burgundy offer. They have secured allocations from some serious producers, in particular whites from Domaine Leflaive which offers decent Bourgogne Chardonnay at a mere £260, leading up to phenomenal , pure, bright, intense Premier Cru Puligny-Montrachet at a wallet-denting £550 for six bottles. Among the reds, I loved the wines of Jean Grivot, now in the hands of fifth generation Etienne Grivot. His Vosne Romanée (£267) showed well with sweet, ripe fruit which will mature to provide elegant drinking.

I waded through a great number of Chablis wines and was fairly unimpressed with most of them; a number seemed to have lost that knife-edge acidity and the minerally crunch which sets this region apart. My disappointment lasted until I reached the Domaine William Fèvre table and then my tastebuds began to tingle. Here they have managed to retain the crisp apple approach, the gravelly bite and the precision that this region needs to be able to mature. I particularly liked Grand Cru Les Preuses (£480 in bond) but was also impressed by the more modestly priced 1er Cru Vaillons at £228 in bond.

Berry Bros in London have these wines, as well as a fabulous list of 2009 from across Burgundy. Check their website www.bbr.com for details.