Home in Leeds: Chef Liz Cottam’s relocated restaurant fighting booking no-shows

After four years, Home restaurant Leeds has moved. The renowned restaurant quit Kirkgate for an uber-cool waterside location at Brewery Wharf. I feel it is an excellent fit for Home and for talented chef-owner Liz Cottam - whom you can catch on BBC 2’s Great British Menu representing the North-East any time now.

I booked our table back in December and paid the requisite £100 non-refundable or transferable deposit, so beware, as they point out in their T&Cs, “you need to be certain of the date and time when booking”. They have exceptions based on reselling the table, no money back if they do, but they will look at moving your reservation.

Before you think me unsympathetic, I get it; I really do. The culture of booking and not showing up is despicable and crippling to a restaurant, but sheesh, these conditions feel harsh as we all know, particularly of late, stuff happens.

Home is an impressive place inside the round Brewery Place building, and most tables follow the gently rounded walls and overlook the River Aire. The centre front of the restaurant is set out theatre-like with three workbenches, one in front of the other and several young chefs busy cooking as though on a stage. The whole place is dark with black the colour of choice on the floors, walls, tables, staff uniforms and even the loos. The lighting is subtle and clever, with each table individually lit, and there’s plenty of light from “the stage”. It felt exciting as I anticipated being immersed in this experience, not there just to eat food.

However, with some disappointment, we were led not towards the river view but to the front and a table with just two others stage-right. The view of the culinary cast side-on was not good and included the messy shelves and floor; not what I wanted to see when dining. I asked the person showing us how to get a table by the river? He replied dismissively “you ask,” as he swept away. This table also had an annoying speaker right above it, which though not loud, coupled with staff wearing masks, meant we missed many ingredients descriptions and, after a while, got fed up with asking them to repeat it.

Despite feeling a little deflated, we were determined to enjoy our evening. I am a massive fan of Liz Cottam’s food at the original Home and recently reviewed the superb Owl in Kirkgate Market and Cora in Boston Spa. Our eight-course Short Tasting Menu comes at £80p/p (£110 for ten courses), the wine flight £65 to £105. The short menu takes 1½ hours, so we anticipated heading into a sprint if this was to be achieved. Not so. Everything was carefully orchestrated with everyone, whether serving or cooking, working harmoniously, and the room’s energy was calm and measured.

Oh, and the food is sublime. Manchego and Iberico came with a Spanish Vermouth and olive shot; lardo and honey glazed bread with anchovy butter. Next was tender lamb, its fat and juices begging to be dipped up with bread. A slightly chewy dumpling of rabbit and smoked eel, Hen of the Woods and crispy tarragon was a genius dish; the fish and meat were together yet each retaining precise, distinctive flavours.

Next up was mussels with Hollandaise, seaweed powder, teeny, tiny croutons and coal oil, a new taste for me – we asked if we could try the oil on its own, and it was an interesting, not unpleasant, flavour. Another fish-meat combo followed with Hake and confit duck, pickled carrot and tomato jus.

The food fell away a little for me at the beef with beetroot and barbecue sauce which I felt overwhelmed the meat, and by the time I had eaten some, the plate looked like a car crash. But, not so across the table, he loved it.

A dark chocolate pavé, salted caramel, lime ice cream was scooped up, but the smoked cola jelly alongside I found strange yet interesting with its ashtray scent. Plus, every course came served on the most exquisite bowls, plates and dishes carefully chosen for this incredible food; even the cutlery deserved a post on Instagram when I got home.

What sensational, inspirational food we had and I loved the smart decor and lighting. However, our visit was eclipsed by niggles and service, which though not unfriendly, could warm up a little. Tweaking is also needed with where we were seated as given the bill came to over £200, and we hadn’t opted for the cheap seats, we did feel a little like we had. And absolutely I will remember to ask for a waterside view when I come again.

Home, 3 Brewery Place, Leeds, LS10 1NE. Tel: 0113 4300161, [email protected]. Open: Wednesday to Friday, 6-8.30pm, Saturday lunch, 12-1.30pm, Saturday dinner, 6-8.30pm, Sunday, 1-3.30pm.

Welcome 3/5

Food 5/5

atmosphere 5/5

prices 4/5