Our friends in the south

They were allowed to elect a mayor, establish courts and raise taxes from the merchants of the city and this freedom to conduct their own affairs eventually lead to York becoming the most important city in the north of the kingdom. Over the centuries this prosperity spread throughout the county to the point where we know we are by far the most important region in the north.

The reason for the Charter was not as magnanimous as it first appears since the citizens of York had to pay for it. The sum extracted was a massive £200 (around £2m in today’s money) plus three horses with an additional annual fee of £160. This money came in handy for King John since he had driven the country to the edge of bankruptcy by fighting endless wars in France.

Selling privileges had become a good source of income for King John. A few years before he granted the York Charter, he gave the same rights to St Emilion in Bordeaux, which at the time was under the English crown.

The merchants there established an administration known as the Jurade which not only governed the economic and legal aspects of the town, but also laid down standards for St Emilion wine which was the main trade. The price for this Charter was 50 tonneaux of wine each year, and since each tonneaux equates to around 1,200 bottles, King John was able to keep himself and his court in fine wine all year.

So, since the beautiful city of York and the equally historic town of St Emilion both had to buy their freedom from King John, then it is only right that they should be linked by friendship and a love of St Emilion wines.

A local Association de la Jurade de St Emilion operates in York, and if you have the slightest interest in eating and drinking well, with an emphasis on the excellent wines of St Emilion, then you should get in touch ([email protected]). UK events include dinners both in Yorkshire and in London as well as regular trips to the main wine events in St Emilion, with visits to grand chateaux that would be difficult to arrange on your own.

In return, members of the Jurade visited York two years ago to establish links between York Minster and the Eglise Collégiale in St Emilion, parading through the city in their long red robes and holding a grand dinner in the Merchant Taylors’ Hall.

Of course it is perfectly possible to explore St Emilion on your own, especially since there are cheap flights to Bordeaux from Liverpool and Gatwick, but I prefer to drive there, meandering through France, stopping en route in the Loire and perhaps on the coast before heading to the limestone ridge of St Emilion with its spectacular church spire dominating the landscape.

The spire is the only part of the church that was actually built – the rest was carved out from the honey-coloured rock of the town, making a huge underground cavern complete with alters and aisles.

The whole town of St Emilion is a Unesco World Heritage site and it is a sheer delight to wander down its winding medieval streets and to enjoy a coffee or a glass of wine in the squares that open up as you explore. Spreading out from the town, across the limestone plateau and down the steep escarpment are 5,400 hectares of top-quality vineyards planted mainly with Merlot which enjoys the well-drained soils with a small proportion of Cabernet France and Cabernet Sauvignon adding their notes to the blend.

If you are more used to the austere, tannic style of left-bank Bordeaux then you will find St Emilion softer, with more fruit and a plush, ripe red berry flavour. It is the perfect accompaniment to roast lamb.

There are over 800 properties in St Emilion and because this is a region where properties are lived in, and are not just monuments to large fortunes earned centuries ago, you will find that many are open for visitors. The best place to start is the tourist centre in the middle of town or check the comprehensive website (www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com). They can arrange visits to châteaux, with tastings where you will probably meet the man who owns the place instead of just a PR person.

For me the top places to visit include Ch. Carteau Côtes Daugay, Ch Corbin Michotte and Ch Grand Corbin-Despagne for their welcome and their affordable wines, but with 103 properties open for visitors you can tailor your trip to the size of your wallet.

There is also a wine school, new for 2012 where you can learn about the region and its wines (in English) in sessions that last from one hour to a whole day (www.maisonduvinsaintemilion.com).

And if you just want to stay at home and raise a glass to celebrate 800 years of the history of York then head for Majestic where they have the mature and ready Ch Grand Corbin 1999, St Emilion Grand Cru at £15.99 on multibuy, or the simply sensational Ch. Fonplegade 2007 St Emilion Grand Cru Classé (£30) which is fabulous with chunky fruit and layers of flavour. This is one that will keep for at least five years and probably a lot longer.

Bon Coeur in Masham has a fine selection of St Emilion wines, sold by the case including a rather good Ch Fombrauge from the exceptional 2009 vintage at £220 a case ex VAT. Contact Bon Coeur on 01765 688200.

For a taste of St Emilion and its wines there is a lunch in York’s Mansion House on September 22 as part of The York Food Festival. Tickets cost £35, contact the Festival on 01904 466687 for details or check the website www.yorkfoodfestival.com