Pub Of The Week: The Wick at Both Ends, Sheffield

It’s a while since I’ve had a Sheffield pub/bar crawl and I’d forgotten how cool the city is. I bobbed into two or three places round Division Street; the Forum’s as good as ever and The Bowery (brainchild of the Arctic Monkeys) achingly hip. The Wick’s in pole position on West Street, attracting a mixed crowd (though it has to be said, mostly under 30s early on a wet Wednesday) and the mood is cheery due mainly to the droll bartender/surfer dude who promises to chase us if we leave without paying.

The zeitgeist trend for mid 20th-century furniture finds its zenith here; G Plan sideboards, Ercol chairs and those three-legged coffee tables in a lounging zone, it’s more shabby-Eames than chic. Comfortable, though. Floors are slightly clattery wood and the walls papered with wild images, Alice in Wonderland wearing Vivienne Westwood. Not great with a midweek hangover though on a Sunday there’s a restorative roast for £6.95 if you’ve burned the candle at both ends. How’s this for a great idea? “Wick & Mix” tapas (three for £10) include a mini veg pie, Bloody Mary stuffed mushrooms and carpaccio of smoked venison – and the very cute and tasty Yorkshire wontons. Burgers are home made, accompanied by chunky chips and a steal at £6.95.

Yellow Rose from Kelham Island’s The Brew Company and Concussion! from the Abbeydale Brewery are permanently on tap. There are plenty of wines by the glass and of course the cocktails. Bombay Sapphire gin, pear, elderflower Collins with a hint of cardamom served long and fresh. It’s a Pearfect Day. And it was.

AMANDA WRAGG

149-151 West Street, Sheffield S1 4EW. 0114 272 3039, www.thewickatbothends.co.uk

THE VERDICT

Welcome*****

Drinks selection*****

Atmosphere****

Food****

Prices*****