Skosh, York: One of Yorkshire's best restaurants recommended by Michelin Guide is even better after expansion

Events and economies over the past eight years have also added to that change, but thankfully, for the betterment of this lovely corner of York.

Micklegate is now known as the place to find independent restaurants and great food, and Skosh has long been at the centre of this and has stood the test of time to become one of York's favourite restaurants and is undoubtedly one of mine.

So, understandably, I was a tad worried when chef-proprietor Neil Bentinck told me of his plans to expand the restaurant into the former solicitor's office next door. He assured me the essence of Skosh would remain intact, but I've heard that said far too many times to be convinced.

Fast forward two years, and they have expanded and are as popular as ever. Skosh is now double-fronted with the new side boasting a bar and, a new thing for Skosh, a few tables for walk-ins.

Downstairs, there's a private dining room that seats 12 and a bar, plus my favourite bit the raised dining area overlooking the kitchen where we have dinner.

At first glance, the original dining room looked to have had a gentle makeover, too, with a bit of jiggling around of seating to create new areas.

There's some lovely new wall panelling that seemingly dampens down any excess noise, and I love the lighting; it's soft yet plenty enough to still read the menu. Later at home, I look back at images of the old and new Skosh and can further see how clever and lovely the transformation is because it has kept all the atmosphere that is Skosh while looking fresh and bang on-trend.

The kitchen remains open to both rooms, and it is a joy to see the chefs at work; it may be only 6.30pm, but Skosh is full, and they are busy.

I'm so thrilled that the menu looks familiar with some of the old favourites, which causes me all kinds of dithering around because I know how good some of those dishes are, but it's incumbent on me to try the new, too.

There are no starters in this lineup; the menu does not work like that; the earlier bits are smaller in size and price, and both increase exponentially as we skim down the menu.

I so want the Hen's egg, which I consider one of Neil's signature dishes - though I think he has changed the cheese to a St Andrews Cheddar from Old Winchester - but I don't.

We start with two cuties: duck liver mousse toast with passion fruit and miso and delicate sea trout cured in kecap manis with lime and peanut. Both are wolfed down after we admire their presentation, especially the soft, creamy duck, dressed to the nines with micro herbs and tiny edible flowers.

I could not pass on the chawanmushi (a Japanese soft custard) with a generous covering of shaved spring truffles. Unfortunately, the overuse of truffles, thanks to cheap imports and a lack of understanding of how to use them, has turned this once special treat into a joke.

I knew that would not be the case here, and it wasn't. Plus, the spring ones are less potent, which mitigates any overuse. I also loved the generous amount of earthy girolles and a good bite of hazelnut.

The potential star of the evening, though, was the fried chicken with gochujang - a potent Korean sauce that is both fiery and sweet with a delightful smack of umami. We were wowed by this chicken dish. The meat was flavourful yet soft, the coating crunchy, and the hit from the sauce was unbelievably good.

The arrival of food started to speed up after these plates, as is the way here; it comes at the behest of the kitchen, so sometimes the order feels chaotic, perhaps because we are more used to a regimental way of eating.

I really enjoy eating this way, and I believe the kitchen is more in control than we give them credit for, though when a dish of roasted Jersey potatoes with a chip shop curry sauce (absolutely as delicious as they sound) came near the end of our meal, I was almost too full to enjoy them at their best.

A cheese and onion flatbread with soft herbs and chilli was tasty and filling. Any thoughts that it would overpower the fish that arrived around the same time were unfounded.

The freshness of a plate of sashimi from Day Boat Brill with granita-style blood orange, fennel, and wasabi was astounding. It was as good to eat as it looked.

The last and largest plate was a hefty chunk of salt-aged duck, which hit all the spots for tenderness and flavour, and the astute use of the Sichuan pepper, mango, and scallion for added taste. It was a triumph of a dish.

Finally, we shared a vanilla and jasmine soft serve dessert with sesame, yuzu, and wakame (edible brown seaweed). I liked the combination, but my sweet-toothed husband struggled to accept the fishy taste of the seaweed on his ice cream; it was pretty funny to watch.

I must also include that they have a great wine list and an astonishing array of wines by the glass, though only a few are organic or low-intervention wines.

Plus, I am astonished at the prices for the quality of food there, too. And, not least, the staff, who are a joy: attentive without being cloying, chatty without being intrusive. They add to all that is great about Skosh.

So they did it. They managed to make Skosh even more enjoyable without breaking what made them great in the first place. If it was hard to get a table here before, it just got much harder.

Welcome 5/5

Food 5/5

Atmosphere 5/5

Prices 5/5

Skosh, 98 Micklegate, York YO1 6JX Tel: 01904 634849

Opening Times: Wed – Sat: 12 noon – 2pm / 5.30pm – 10pm