State of independents

So, how was it for you? That was the question I asked a selection of local independent wine merchants in my post-Christmas ring round. “Quite good” was the overall response, although some hesitated before replying, almost as if admitting a good trading period might cause it to disappear.

Now I realise that asking a wine merchant how much wine they have sold is a bit like asking a fisherman how big his last catch was, but to be honest, I think they meant it, which is great.

If we can keep our local independents in business then we are protecting our tastebuds from some of the bland and boring offerings presented by many supermarkets.

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Of course we like supermarkets when they give us good wines at great prices, but without competition in the high street and a yardstick to be judged by we would be swimming in a sea of overpriced, indifferent wine.

So this year make sure you step inside an independent shop at least once a month, if only to browse the shelves and say hello. Most independents have bright, interested people behind the counter and they won’t be snooty if you say you just want a bottle of wine to go with supper.

I tasted at as many local independents winter tastings as I could get to, but some wines and even some merchants were left out. Here are a few suggestions to look for when you go shopping.

The Wright Wine Company, Skipton, 01756 700886, www.wineandwhisky.co.uk

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I was berated by a reader for not knowing that before Christmas, Roederer champagne was cheaper here than at Majestic, but apparently Bob Wright was too busy selling the stuff to tell me about it. The moral of the story is that the small local shop might just be the cheapest option so it is always worth checking it out. And while you are there, make sure you get to know about the whisky tastings held four times a year.

They are hugely over-subscribed so you may have to jostle to get a ticket, but Bob has one of the finest collection of whiskies in the country and it is well worth standing in line for the opportunity to taste a few of them.

The wine range is comprehensive and contains nuggets of taste such as the smooth, elegant Jordan’s Cobblers Hill (£20) from South Africa, the vibrant 3 Amigos from McHenry Hohnan from Australia, the sensational Ridge Monte Bello from Californioa and an excellent range from Italy, including Fontodi’s Vigna del Sorbo and Gaja’s Barbaresco.

Unusually, there is also a great selection of half bottles so you can drink well even if you are drinking on your own.

Winearray, Boroughbridge, 01423 323337, www.winearray.co.uk

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This is a well-stocked shop that is well worth turning off the A1 for, and with parking right outside, you can load up and be back on the road in no time at all. The range is wide and well-chosen by proprietor Nick and you are quite likely to find the occasional bottle open for tasting when you call in.

Particularly strong in classic regions such as Italy and France, the range includes wines such as Damilano Barolo and Marco Felluga’s Russiz Superiore Sauvignon from Friuli as well as a fine range of burgundies such as Chavy’s Puligny Montrachet and great value Roncevie from Domaine Arlaud which ranks as just a Bourgogne Rouge but has quality well above its price point.

With the clear cherry flavours of Delta Pinot Noir from New Zealand and the zesty fruit of Skillogalee Riesling from Australia, this is a shop where you can find wines that are not generally available in the area.

There’s a cigar club and events when cigars are matched to various cognacs, armagnacs and wines. Ring for more details.

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Cairns and Hickey, Bramhope, Leeds, 0113 267 3746, www.candhwines.co.uk

This well-established shop in Bramhope has a choice of 397 wines which should keep you busy for several weeks. Among them you will find a good selection of clarets such as Gloria 2005 and Langoa Barton 2003; there are Rhônes from Guigal and Chapoutier; Rioja from Coto de Imaz and a great value Corbières from Domaine Ste Eugene.

There is also a fine choice of sweet wines which are great when you serve up a pudding or cheese board. Chocolate puds need the weight and concentration of Quady’s Black Elysium from California, if there is ice-cream on the plate then a sweet PX from Jerez is good in the glass or poured over the dessert, while a rhubarb crumble needs a Coteaux du Layon from Domaine de la Roche.

Bon Coeur Fine Wines, Masham, 01765 688200, www.bcfw.co.uk

There is no shop and sales are by the case only, although you can mix your bottles at this merchant in Masham.

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This is the place to go for your en primeur claret and a fine range of burgundies from producers such as Girardin, Faiveley and Rossignol Trapet.

Proprietor Jamie Goodhart also snaps up parcels of wine as he finds them and sends details out by email, so if you are interested in finding 100 point-scoring wines such as Brunello Tenuta Nuova 2006 or Tignanello 2007 then you need to get on the mailing list.

Prices are very competitive and there is advice on wine investment if you want. This is also the place to go to for large format bottles such as magnums, double magnums and even Imperials containing eight bottles-worth of wine.

I really try hard to get round as many of our independents as I can, but I can’t get to them all, so if you have a particularly good merchant nearby who you think deserves a mention then let me know, or better still, get the merchant to send me an email at [email protected].

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