The Cross Inn, Heptonstall: Pub frequented by Cragg Vale Coiners gets top marks

Heptonstall is just along the valley from my house and most weekends it’s where you’ll find me, walking the dog up the steep cobbled street and in and out of the woods.

It’s an incredibly atmospheric village, perched high on the hill above Hebden Bridge and famous for a number of things.

Firstly, it’s got a wonderful octagonal Wesleyan Chapel, said to be the oldest in continual use.

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Secondly, the writer and wife of Ted Hughes, Sylvia Plath is buried in the churchyard and now, thanks to Benjamin Myer’s book The Gallows Pole and Shane Meadow’s BBC adaptation of it, the village is enjoying a visitor boost.

The Cross Inn, in HeptonstallThe Cross Inn, in Heptonstall
The Cross Inn, in Heptonstall

‘King’ David Hartley, chief Coiner is buried there too, though many years apart from Mrs Hughes of course.

There are two pubs in the village, the White Lion (a great place, written about on these pages) and the Cross Inn.

Built in 1617 on the site of an even older drinking hole, the Cross Inn is an historic Grade 11 listed pub, originally the Union Cross and an old Coiner’s pub.

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It’s a pleasing interior that’s been sympathetically updated but with all the features you’d expect: beams, wooden benches, stone flags in some areas and tartan carpet in others and open fires.

There’s a games room at the far end with a pool table and dart board, and a lovely dining room featuring an ancient stone fireplace with a chilling story attached.

In January 1771, Abraham Ingham, a farm labourer was overheard saying he would identify various members of the Coiners. He was grabbed by the neck and thrown into the fireplace, and hot coals shoved down his trousers.

Worth a thought while you’ve enjoying a pint of Vocation Heart & Soul. Also on the pumps, Bread & Butter, Nettle Thrasher from Elland Brewery, Happy and Fuzzy and SoCal from Cloudwater in Manchester, and Jaipur from Thornbridge Brewery in Derbyshire.

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There’s a decent wine list and, of course, lots of gins to choose from.

Now looked after by Matthanee aka Gig, who also runs the famous Golden Lion in Todmorden, the menu is Thai, and the generous dishes coming out of the kitchen smelled delicious.

Expect the likes of wonton soup, prawn tempura and chicken satay, with curries including Massaman, and a Pad Nam Mun Hoi stir fry. Noodle dishes include Pad Thai and Teriyaki Chow Mein. You’ll know how well Asian food and beer work if you’ve been to Bundobust in Leeds or Manchester.

On a fine day take to the lovely big suntrap yard at the back; if you want to make a night of it, there are a couple of comfortable, simple rooms – this is prime walking country – your canine chum is welcome too.

The Cross Inn, Towngate, Heptonstall, West Yorkshire HX7 7NB. Open Tue to Thu 4-12, Fri & Sat 12-1, Sun 12-11 .

RATINGS

Welcome 5/5

Drinks selection 5/5

Atmosphere 5/5

Prices 5/5

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