The Cross Keys, Thixendale: The Yorkshire boozer which is still serving its 'spectacular' chips despite its legendary landlord retiring

True to his word, Steve took his licence and his missus Mary and retired to a house a few yards up the road, happy to move from master of all he surveyed to a humble punter.

Happy that Steve and Mary were happy, my main concern was that The Cross Keys wouldn’t survive this long-threatened D-Day and we would forever lose not only a lovely little village pub but also the spectacular chips they serve.

Thankfully, Thixendale residents/friends of Steve and Mary/Cross Keys regulars/first-time licensees Tom Griffiths and Natalie Rafferty have taken the reins, thrown some paint around and re-opened in what feels like the blinking of an eye.

Newbies they may be, but they know enough to retain the award-winning ales, the hearty lunchtime sandwiches, the no-nonsense evening menu and - huge sigh of relief - the spectacular chips. (Although I’m sure they used to be crinkle cut. Maybe I’m misremembering.)

With Tom in the kitchen and Natalie out front, the pub now seems to be open far more often than it was – again, my memory may be playing up on me - but it’s definitely still worthwhile booking in advance if you plan to eat or, better still, take one of the B&B rooms round the back and forget the drive home.

Unfortunately, Tom and Natalie are yet to accurately recapture Steve’s unique and distinctly abrupt landlordly manner, but this will doubtless come as some relief to those of a more tender disposition.

Personally, I loved Steve’s style but then again, I don’t visit The Cross Keys very often, so I was only victim of it once every blue moon.

The Cross Keys, Thixendale, Malton, YO17 9TG www.crosskeysthixendale.co.uk

Welcome 5/5

Food 4/5

Drinks choice 4/5

Prices 4/5