The Feather & Beak at Brickfields Farm, Kirkbymoorside review: B&B owners who took the plunge and opened lovely restaurant

I love that many happily succeed, especially if they have done their homework correctly and found a gap or a need for what they have and the right market.

One such couple is Ian and Karen Auker at The Feather and Beak, Brickfields Farm near Kirkbymoorside, who broke into this world a few years ago. When Ian’s job brought him to Yorkshire, he and Karen had stressful jobs, and they started to dream of a different way of life.

In 2018 they seized the chance to buy Brickfields Farm, set in 14 acres of lovely North Yorkshire countryside and though neither is from a hospitality background, set about opening a B and B. They then slammed straight into the face of the Pandemic but thankfully came through on the other side and now have a very successful and award-winning business.

Early on, Ian and Karen began serving a small menu to their staying guests in what they called the “Hidden Kitchen.” Then, in November ’21, they rebranded and opened The Feather and Beak, which is now open to the public.

Feather and Beak had been on my to-do list for a while, having been highly recommended by a trusted foodie friend, but other notable openings and the like had taken my attention.

On a sweltering weekend in early June, we fancied Sunday lunch, and though a traditional roast is my favourite, it was even too hot for me to consider. Enter the Feather and Beak.

I looked at their Sunday lunch menu and was intrigued. On this scorcher of a day, they had eschewed the traditional and offered a summery menu cooked in their wood-fired ovens. A light menu started with roasted field mushrooms and tapenade, a baked Camembert with gherkins and sourdough or a plate of tempura prawns.

For mains, there was beef from Radfords in Sleights but not a Yorkie in sight; wood-fired tuna; spatchcock “Jerk” poussin, whole roast seabass or a fillet roasted on cedar if the whole deal is too much. This was more like it.

The restaurant and bar are in the main building, and when we got there – a little hot and bothered having initially missed the turning down the farm track - there was no one around except one family party eating indoors. We wandered about rather aimlessly until a young server asked if we were there to eat. Yes. She then thrust two menus into our hands and turned away.

When I asked where we had to sit, anywhere you want was her reply. So, we wandered outside, found a table and sat down.

This strange greeting had thrown me, and I was a little irritated by it, but in her defence, we chatted on and off with her during our meal. She is charming, and I think the heat was getting to everyone that day except, as far as we could tell, Chef Geoff Smithed was unflustered by it all as he cooked away and attended to the outdoor ovens.

Geoff’s name has popped up regularly over the years at notable pubs and restaurants in Yorkshire. Still, now his renowned classic cooking is at the Feather and Beak, where he cooks both in the traditional and the impressive outdoor kitchen with two wood-fired ovens.

A glass of ice-cold rose and beer arrived with olives, sourdough Dukkha, Balsamic and olive oil to keep us going while Geoff was busy with the tempura prawns. They came piled on the plate with micro herbs and were hot from the fire. The batter is cobweb fine and crisp, the prawns meltingly soft. How Geoff achieved that with the fierce heat is astonishing.

Geoff checked in with me on the cooking of the tuna I had ordered; I like medium rare, I say; he gives me a wry smile which is puzzling. When the fish arrives, it is perfectly cooked.

Geoff is back to check how it is and explains the precision cooking needed with fish and that it is not so easy in a wood-fired oven. He has got this one bang on, so he did not need to worry. It was delicious and a very generous piece, so much so that I passed it across the table to be finished.

The cooking of a meaty seabass fillet is equally as accomplished as the tuna. and came laid over a pile of tasty chunks of wood-fired roasted vegetables. As we tucked into our mains, deep dishes of an avocado salad, roast potatoes and a Tabbouleh are put on the table.

We explained we hadn’t ordered these, to be told they are served with every main course, which is a lovely added touch. Still, we seriously did not have room even to try to eat them.

To finish this great lunch, we chose a lemon posset with raspberries, raspberry coulis and a shortbread biscuit. Puddings don’t come more classic or as beautifully cooked as this one.

As the lunch was almost over and we were the last guests sitting, we had a chance for a good chat with both Ian and Karen, and it was a delight to hear of how they started and their hopes and aspirations for the business. They have cracked the B and B and the food here.

There is no faulting their passion for what they do. However, there are quick, easy tweaks like giving the outside space a good sweep before service and replacing finger-marked menus with freshly printed ones; these small things could turn this from a lovely restaurant to a fabulous one.

But please do not remove the smiles, the time to spend with guests or any of those special touches that make this place so unique. I hope Kirkbymoorside appreciates what they have on their doorstep.

The Feather & Beak @ Brickfields, Kirby Mills, Kirkbymoorside, North Yorkshire YO62 6NS. Tel: 01751 433074. Wed to Sat 6pm to 8pm (last table), Sun Lunch 12pm to 3.30pm (traditional Suny lunch returns in September).

Food 5/5

Welcome 3/5

Atmosphere 4/5

Prices 4/5