The Imaginarium, Barton on Humber review: British-Mediterranean restaurant with other influences is 'like entering a Tardis'

I vividly remember the first time I went to Barton-Upon-Humber. It was Wednesday, June 24, 1981; the day the Humber Bridge opened. Me and a few schoolmates biked across the bridge to the very point where “sky and Lincolnshire and water meet”. At the time, for kids living in Hull, the idea that you could cycle to another county was unfathomable.

We arrived in Barton to find the 1950s. Life seemed to have stopped decades earlier in this sleepy little town and the bridge was now acting as a time machine. 1981 in Hull, 1953 in Barton. Little has changed from then till now. Barton has expanded a bit and it feels less dusty and wind-blown than it did to 12-year-old me.

Restaurant-wise, it underperforms for a town of 11,000 or so people. There are a number of cafes, a couple of curry houses and a few uninspiring pubs. For three decades, the most popular place to eat was Elio’s Italian, in the corner of the marketplace. I understand the chefs from nearby Winteringham Fields would go there for the staff meals. So it must have been good. When Elio decided to sell up in 2018, journeyman chef Lee Moxon took it on and opened the Imaginarium, his first attempt at running his own restaurant.

Imaginarium is something of a Tardis. The small frontage belies an expansive, labyrinthine series of dining spaces. A small bar leads to a larger dining room, which leads to an even larger conservatory/ courtyard area where we settled for a seat. First thing to say about the food at the Imaginarium is that it is very difficult to pin down to one cuisine. I’d say it’s British/ Mediterranean but with Asian influences. And American, South American and Indian influences. But that’s it. No other continents get a look in. It’s a confused, meandering menu that seeks to please everyone. The sort of thing you find at a place that just wants bums on seats so tries not to leave anyone uncatered for. If that business model works in Barton, though, who am I to criticise?

Here’s the thing. From the menu alone, I was ready to dislike the place. But Lee can cook and the food is surprisingly good. The best thing I ate is possibly the best thing I’ve eaten anywhere for many months. Sweet and sticky pork is just fried strips of pork in soy, honey, ginger and chilli but it is quite superb. Crispy, chewy, flavoursome and moreish, I could eat it at least once a day for the rest of my time on earth.

Duck croquettes (crispy balls of breadcrumbed duck dipped in soy) are excellent. Asparagus next, left un-faffed with and simply charred with a poached egg yolk on top. Completely marvellous. And these are all from the starters and sides.

Mains continued our trek across the globe. Chicken souvlaki hanging skewers brought big, juicy, chargrilled chunks of chicken tasting of lemon and oregano, dripping with juice and the cause of many a lip-smack. And then a simple pressed lamb belly, perfectly cooked and served with watercress, new pots, wild garlic butter, a gamey-tasting gravy and more charred asparagus.

Puds are a bit more prosaic. Offerings like apple crumble, crème brûlée and sticky toffee pudding are ten-a-penny and I couldn’t help wishing Lee put as much effort into internationally sourcing his desserts as he does the rest of the menu.

It’s a funny one, the Imaginarium. Like the building is deceptively small-yet-big, so the menu appears scattergun until the food actually arrives. Then it’s solid, value-for-money and skilfully made. I still think there’s a trick being missed. With talent in the kitchen and a growing, relatively well-off town needing a reliable place to enjoy a sit-down meal, I hope the Imaginarium develops into something more refined. I understand that the pandemic left so many places desperate simply to get people in and eating but, I hope, as financial pressures ease, Lee finds more confidence in his ability and pares down and concentrates the menu on one or – at most – two types of cuisine. I like to think his customers would travel with him as his restaurant becomes more than it currently is. As long as he keeps the sweet and sticky pork, though. He’s not allowed to drop that. Ever.

The Imaginarium, 11 Market Place, Barton-Upon-Humber DN18 5DA, tel 01652 635147, www.imaginariumrestaurant.co.uk. Open: Wednesday and Thursday, 5-9pm, Friday and Saturday, 9am-9pm, Sunday, 9am-7pm.

Welcome 4/5

Food 4/5

atmosphere 4/5

prices 4/5