The Owl at Hawnby: The restaurant which has given this Yorkshire village its pub back

But by far, my experiences are usually a delight, and I love it when things are good; I never want it not to be anything but, and I have often cried when a place did not deliver.

I mention all this because, in 2022, I went to the Owl at Hawnby, up on the North York Moors, and had a spectacularly dreadful meal where we returned all our food to the kitchen, yet no one questioned why.

Plus, I had a slight run-in with another diner who seemed to think it was okay for their large dog to variously sit on a chair at the table or on the windowsill and bark every time anyone walked past – I kid you not. I love dogs and don't mind them when I am eating, but this was too much.

I never even wrote the review; the next day, the kitchen shut its doors, and the last time I looked, the inn had closed completely. So, I was surprised and intrigued when I heard it was to reopen, especially when I found out with whom.

Now the Owl is in the hands of chef Sam Varley, who has made quite a name for himself at Bantam, his restaurant in Helmsley. He opened in 2021, not long after the pandemic had released us from its grip, and it was a tricky time for all.

Still, Sam came with a respectable CV covering experience in restaurants as widespread as Australia to Fife, a particular favourite of mine. At Bantam, he and his team have built a stellar reputation for their great food, which will hopefully continue alongside the Owl, 13 miles up the road.

The inn is in a glorious location, and the drive there from all directions is spectacular. The Owl was refurbished two years ago and is lovely. There’s a stylish outside terrace and inside, two large dining rooms with fires, and a handsome, well-stocked bar for those who want to pop in for a pint – I am reliably told the village is very happy to get their pub back again. Plus, nine luxurious bedrooms for those wanting to sleep over.

It is still early days for Sam and the team, and it is the winter season, so it seems they are carefully easing themselves into the Owl. The menu has just six starters, five mains, and puddings and a specials board to add a little extra choice.

I am thrilled with the wine list as it lists many, which are – joy of joys for my allergy – low-intervention wines from small producers. There's a choice of 12 wines by the 125ml glass, ranging from £5 to £8.50.

We are delighted to start with a chunky, super-tasty slice of sausage roll with a tiny dollop of apple sauce and shard of crisp crackling from chef while we wait for our starters. Were this to be a little larger, I would have happily enjoyed it as a starter in its own right.

Someone has a good hand on the pastry coming out of this kitchen, as both the sausage roll mentioned and my mushroom vol au vent starter had the butteriest, flakiest crispness to them, yet were strong enough to easily hold the pile of rich, dark, earthy mushrooms. The vol au vent is a classic dish and not seen around and about much these days, but I would have this one any day of the week; it was sublime.

Over the way, he had opted for a lighter plate of classicism, which, though not a particularly wintery dish of pear, gorgonzola, walnut and chicory, was delightful with the lovely balance of flavours and textures at play.

It is rare to see rabbit, let alone polenta, on a menu, and I was so happy to find it here at the Owl. The ragu of rabbit, pancetta and cime di rapa greens were perfectly aligned with the dark moors and howling wind outside, all hearty and broody and full-flavoured. The polenta was the creamy style that I love from the mountainous regions of northern Italy and, thankfully, not the fried abomination we were bombarded with some years ago here in the UK. I felt this one was a little soupier than I would have liked, though it did have great flavour.

Our other main was a chunk of meaty roast cod, sadly only one piece, and salsify sitting in a pool of potted shrimp butter. My first reaction was that the portion size seemed very small for its price tag of £25. But, on reflection, it was a decent piece of quality fish; I think the small soup bowl it came in had thrown me off.

Despite being more than happy with what we had eaten, we managed a slice of treacle tart and clotted cream; it would have been hard not to, as this is one of my favourites, and here it was excellent.

What a delight this place is. There were no barking dogs (well-behaved ones are welcome, though, in the bar) and not a crumb returned to the kitchen.

What a difference to my earlier crazy visit. The staff are eager, professional and attentive.

The place is warm and welcoming, even on a filthy night when it is quiet, so I can only imagine it will be even lovelier on brighter days.

Yes, it is early days, but all the signs are promising. I will even stick my neck out here and say that The Owl at Hawnby with Sam and his team are the ones to watch in 2024. I, for one, am eager to go back.

The Owl at Hawnby, Hilltop, York YO62 5QS Tel: 01439 330180. Bar open: Wednesday to Sunday, 12 noon – 11pm, bar food served all day: Wednesday to Sunday, 12 noon – 9pm; dining room, lunch: Friday to Saturday, 12 noon – 2:30pm, dinner: Wednesday to Saturday, 5 – 9pm, Sunday lunch: 12 noon – 4pm.