The Plough in Wombleton: Meet the talented couple who have taken over a 15th century pub in North Yorkshire

As we were renovating our house, he had frequent trips to the Household Waste facility in nearby Wombleton and would often pop into the Plough Inn (as it was then) on his way back. But, no sooner had he settled into his routine than he was very upset to learn that his 'local' was closing, and it did soon after. This was a significant loss to him and the village as the Plough was at its heart and had been serving beer here since the 15th century. So, what would happen to it now, I wondered?

We didn't have to wait long as the talented couple, chef Richard Johns and his wife Lindsey, were to take over. I have written about the Johns many times over the years, as far back as when they had the award-winning Artisan in Hessle, close to the Humber Bridge, up to more recently at The Hovingham, ten minutes down the road, which they sadly left in February 2022 after a dispute over the lease. They said they had had enough, but this pair doesn't give in easily, and now are back and promising to pick up where they left off at the Hovingham.

Much to my husband's delight, the bar will remain very a bar. Richard states: "It is essential to us that folks feel they can nip in for a pint or two and feel no pressure to eat from the menu". And, on the night of our visit, that was very much in evidence as it was busy with loads of chatter from customers gathered around the bar, and there was plenty of seating for drinkers only. There are plans, I am told, to create more of this seating eventually.

I would have been more than happy to eat in the bar with its genial atmosphere; when eating in pubs, that is always where I ask to be seated, as many pub restaurants can seem quiet or restrained. But we were led through to the restaurant, and for once, I did not mind. The room has a lovely feel with its low ceiling, stone walls, and candlelight. Neat, simply dressed tables were placed carefully for space and privacy, and all felt cosy, welcoming and relaxed.

For now, Richard is alone in the kitchen and Lyndsey out front, so the menu is small and the covers modest to ensure it can be handled easily. Lyndsey moves around seemingly effortlessly; her orchestration of the room is flawless. I don't know how she does it and still finds time to chat. I am sure the same is true in the kitchen, as dishes arrive seamlessly with just the right amount of time between. There are three starters, mains and puddings, which can come as two (£39.95) or three courses (£49.95) with or without a wine pairing sold by the glass, which Lindsey also serves.

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A piece of treacle-cured organic salmon starts things off and comes with prawns, pickled cucumber, and apple. It is as vibrant and fresh on the plate as it sounds. The salmon is a generous portion of tender cured fish that hints of treacle but is by no means swamped by it. We loved the contrast of the pickled cucumber and the sharpness of crisp apple matchsticks to the soft fish.

For the other starter, there's a pile of excellently cooked duck confit, which marries with an assortment of textures and flavours from pine nuts, pomegranate and peppery rocket bathed in a duck dressing.

We stuck to the fish and duck for our mains, just switching with what we had as starters. A generous, squeaky fresh cod fillet is beautifully cooked so that the fat flakes of fish barely hold together. The fish sits on a gleaming, yellow-coloured butternut squash risotto drizzled with lemon and chive oil. Risotto is one of my favourites, but rarely will I order it when eating out because I have suffered too often at the hand of over-stirring and not enough stock, thus making it dry and the rice hard. Conversely, there's too much stock, creating a gluey porridge-like mess. Not here, though.

Another dish that can go so quickly wrong is honey roast duck; again, it is a triumph in Richard's hands. A lovely meaty breast was cooked just the right side of rare, with a delectable fennel purée, sticky sweet roasted carrots and Hasselback potatoes, tenderstem broccoli and a good drenching of red wine sauce.

But, as great as those dishes were, the Vanilla pod creme brulée was my absolute favourite. I have not tasted one this good since my stint at the Escoffier in Paris – the one the tutor made, not me; I can do a good one, but as good as this. The creme stood well in the spoon yet melted in the mouth; the glaze shattered like glass, and the vanilla was precise; creme brulee at its best.

In January this year, just months after opening at the Plough, Richard and Lindsey made it onto the prestigious Estrella Damm's 2024 Gastropub list at number 67. I was not surprised as where the Johns go, the accolades usually follow, which is a testament to their talents.

I am so pleased they have come to the Plough, not just because we get to be close by. I also feel this place suits them and the way they work. My biggest wish is that they keep it for the foreseeable future and settle into the village and the area as they did at Hovingham. Because, as with Estrella Damm's listing, those gongs will come for the hardworking couple, as I have seen many times before. I'm excited for them.

The Plough, Main Street, Wombleton, North Yorkshire, YO62 [email protected] Tel: 01751 431 356

Welcome 5/5

Food 5/5

Atmosphere 5/5

Prices 4.5/5