Ukrainian chef Lena Sutherland has come out of retirement to set up a restaurant in Hull

Lena met merchant seaman Ian in her home city, the Ukrainian port of Odesa, and moved to his hometown Hull with him in 1996. They wed and she became Mrs Sutherland. She then ran Lena’s Deli – a fantastic little city centre shop that sold traditional takeaway Ukrainian food – for 22 years before selling up and retiring in 2021. She never expected to put on an apron in a professional capacity ever again. Then Putin stuck his unwelcome oar in.

Lena’s son, daughter-in-law, brother and other family members are still in Ukraine, and she is doing all she can to help them. After hosting and cooking at a successful fundraising dinner earlier this year, she decided to take the lease on the former Operetta restaurant at the foot of the K2 building to try to raise more money and provide work for fellow Ukrainians seeking refuge in the UK.

Lena’s Ukrainian Kitchen has been open a few weeks and not only are most of the staff Ukrainians seeking escape from the situation at home, money is already being sent to humanitarian causes in the heart of the war zone. Lena is doing much good here and in her home country and she deserves our support.

Good is also being done on plates. The food is wonderful. I’m no expert on Ukrainian food, I’ve visited (and had traditional dishes in) many East European countries, but not yet Ukraine. Even I recognise a few dishes, though; borshch and sauerkraut and stroganoff are all safe bets and there are some nods to south European cuisine on the menu. Me being me, however, I insist we sample only stuff I’ve never heard of.

Khachapuri is a Georgian flat bread with two types of cheese. It’s like a crispy, pancake-flat circular toastie containing a delicious, herby Ukrainian cheese mixed with – because smuggling a wide variety of cheeses from a war zone is proving tricky – good old cheddar.

Deruny are potato cakes. Sort of like a rosti but floppier. They are served (as are many of the dishes) with sour cream or they can provide a base to soak up stews or dishes like stroganoff. They work perfectly well on their own and make a filling starter.

I ordered Varenyky because, whatever they are, they come stuffed with sour cherries. I’m not going to turn that down. It turns out they’re basically dumplings, served as a main dish rather than dessert, which was a surprise. Ten arrive on a plate drizzled with cherry juice and with another dollop of the ubiquitous sour cream. They’re actually neither particularly sweet nor particularly sour, just very tasty.

Nalysnyky are pancakes filled with ham hock and tvorog, which is a type of cheese curd. They’re ace. Of course they are. I’m having a great time, by the way, eating amazing food while learning new words. The patient and delightful waiting staff are doing their best to translate and recommend but, somewhat inevitably, it all descends into a morass of pointing and elaborate mime. This simply adds to the fun.

Best of the dishes we sampled was Holubtsi. A Ukrainian staple consisting of baked cabbage leaves stuffed with minced pork and beef, rice, onion and (probably) garlic and parsley. They sometimes come with carrot or potato or other veg or different herbs as they’re one of those whatever’s-left-chuck-it-in dishes. Served covered in a tomato sauce with a side of choice. I went for vitamin salad - think coleslaw without the mayonnaise - because I’d had it a few times in sandwiches from Lena’s deli. The whole thing is a remarkable plateful and entirely recommended. I went back and had it again a few days later because I couldn’t stop thinking about it.

We drank a Ukrainian beer called Obolon, but I’ll be trying the vodkas or cocktails the next time I go as they all sounded amazing. Lena’s is currently open only during the day but occasional themed evenings have begun so I’ll be back for Vodka Night at the very least.

Puds brought a slice of Napolean cake. Layers of custard cream between layers of thin shortcrust pastry, which is crunchy and soft and oozy and seriously good. Lena is working on dyeing the layers of pastry so the cake is the yellow and blue of the Ukrainian flag. I had a baked apple with cream, raisins and walnuts. It went a long way to easing the regret I felt at not ordering the cake. Both dishes are traditional and both are simple and perfect.

The restaurant still feels very much like it’s finding its feet. You have to be aware that it’s all been put together by a few people in an understandable rush. It’s a little chaotic, but in a very friendly and attractive way. There is also currently no website and the social feeds are patchy. None of this matters, though. All you need to concern yourself with is eating there. Either use the phone number and book or just drop in. It’s a large place so there will almost certainly be a table available. The food is fabulous and extremely good value. We spent just under £50 and struggled to eat everything that we were served, so big were the portions.

I’d be encouraging you to eat at Lena’s Ukrainian Kitchen simply for the cause alone but, very fortunately, the food is absolutely fantastic and also incredible value. So, simply by visiting, you can do some good for Ukraine, fill your belly, and give the President of Russia a poke in the eye all at the same time.

Open: 9-6 every day and occasional evenings.

56-58 Bond Street

Hull

HU1 3EN

Tel: 07515 931163