York Minster Refectory: Michelin starred chef's new venture proves a hit

This latest addition to the flourishing food scene in York is unique in its location in the Precinct of York Minster and has a remarkable history. The 1830s building was initially built for St Peter's School and housed the famous Minster School founded in 1903 for educating choristers which sadly closed in 2020.

The sympathetic renovation of the former school has been taking place behind closed doors since last summer, and I, for one, was so curious as to what they were up to, mainly as the venture is a collaboration between York-based GEM Construction and one of Yorkshire's cherished chefs, Andrew Pern. I had no doubts with his touch on the place we could be in for great things.

I was privileged to be at the opening, though sadly, the King had left before I arrived, and what a treat it was to see the transformation both in and out. The views of the Minster from here are epic, and I seriously cannot think of a restaurant with such a commanding view; for that, it is worth a visit, plus the food, of course, but more of that later on.

The majestic pathway to the Refectory through the grassed quadrangle is lovely, and there are many plans for maximising this rarity of outside green space for a restaurant in York.

Still, for now, an arresting area is laid out for dining and drinking, which I can only imagine will be a great draw on a glorious summer's day. Inside is imposing with its stone arches and mullioned, lead-paned windows looking back to the Minster.

A gorgeous bar and dining room are decorated with an understated nod back to the former occupants with sheet music lampshades, musical instruments, and soft lighting. The furniture is simple yet beautiful, there's a long central back-to-back seating area with a long leather banquette and other tables dotted about. I love the pewter cutlery. Upstairs there is a fabulous private dining room complete with gargoyles and more stunning views.

I return to eat at the Refectory on an infuriatingly windy, cold May evening dashing all hopes of us sitting outside wine-in-hand. So, we are inside at a cosy table, and the place is not very busy, but why would I be surprised? I had not wanted to go out on such a filthy night. Gradually though, the bar and the dining room start to fill, and with it, the atmosphere builds.

The intention in the food here is an all-day menu which kicks off with breakfast/brunch, then onto the full menu. There's a takeaway menu, vegan and vegetarian, kids and Sunday lunch. From 12 – 6 pm, a lighter bite menu is more relaxed and approachable for lunch and late afternoon than the main menu. I am going back to try that one in a few weeks.

On the all-day menu, as I would have expected, food is locally sourced where possible; there's a great wine list and food in the style of which Andrew is the master - though many have tried to copy. Just the writing of his dishes makes it inviting before even seeing it. There's meat, fish and seasonal game; ingredients like torched mackerel, pigs cheek, steaks, market day fish and seafood, Bouillabaisse, Wild Mushroom and Summer Truffle Pithivier. You get the picture, I am sure.

We start with a small, freshly baked sourdough loaf and salty butter while waiting for the starters. Then first up is pressed duck and ham knuckle haslet with cider jelly, a very boozy prune purée, and a very unusual duck fat fried slice of Parkin, which is far more delicious than it sounds and the perfect carb for the hefty piece of perfectly executed haslet on my plate. Next, given recent events, we have a Coronation Crab starter of white Whitby crab with Indian spices, raisins and almonds and dotted around the plate little squirts of soft gel. The dish is so good with its texture and flavours; the plate is wiped clean.

A special of Sea Bass with a buttery sauce, caviar and lobster nuggets was the best fish dish I can remember in a long, long time. The fish was squeaky fresh with sparkling white flesh, fat golf balls of battered lobster, chunky spears of asparagus, and borage with the seasoning on the fish absolutely bang on. As I write these words, my mouth is watering at the thought of that dish. It was simply delicious.

Our other main was full-on carnivore food. A British veal chop on the bone, a smoky eel croquet, a slightly sweet crunchy piccalilli, and a veal jus was a bold and flavoursome dish which may not have looked as pretty as mine, but boy was it good. Smiles all around for this course. And further smiles for the raspberry sundae, a triumph for my sweet-toothed husband. Much to his chagrin, I asked for a spoon to taste, and he was unhappy as I kept returning for more.

The York Minster Refectory is still evolving and growing. There are tweaks here and there as they carefully consider their audience. The lighter menu will undoubtedly add to what is already a lovely array of choices. The staff under the watchful eye of Stellian, who many of you will probably know from his time with Andrew, is remarkable. And though Andrew is not in the kitchen, he clearly has it in good hands with Josh Brimmell, given our dinner. Yes, I was impressed. The Rectory is a stunning addition to York and Yorkshire, and I feel we have not even the best of it yet knowing Andrew and his drive for perfection. I cannot wait to see how this continues to evolve.

York Minster Refectory, Deangate, York, YO1 7JA. Tel: 01904 307399,[email protected]. Open: Monday to Thursday, 11am-11pm, Friday to Sunday, 9am-11pm (Sunday, 10pm).

Welcome5/5

Food5/5

Atmosphere5/5

Prices5/5