Ratcatcher Tweed: The brand bringing Yorkshire style to the UK's grouse moors

Clothmaking may be woven into the very fabric of Yorkshire with such heritage today reaching the farthest grouse moors of the nation.

As the region marked the start of the shooting season last month, gamekeepers and guests are among those donning shooting suits in true Yorkshire style.

To Jon Wall, with his made-to-measure country clothing, Yorkshire's reputation for quality brings immense pride.

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Mr Wall's Ratcatcher Tweed brand, based in Baildon, sees everything stitched in Yorkshire, made in Yorkshire, and – bar some Scottish tweeds - is all Yorkshire's own.

Jon Wall, owner of Ratcatcher Clothing, on Baildon Moor, West Yorkshire. Picture By Yorkshire Post Photographer,  James Hardisty.Jon Wall, owner of Ratcatcher Clothing, on Baildon Moor, West Yorkshire. Picture By Yorkshire Post Photographer,  James Hardisty.
Jon Wall, owner of Ratcatcher Clothing, on Baildon Moor, West Yorkshire. Picture By Yorkshire Post Photographer, James Hardisty.

"Leeds and West Yorkshire was the clothing capital of the world at one time, and the home of fabric," he said. "There was a massive amount of garment making, and most of what remains is still in this area.

"The majority of shoots in England and some parts of Scotland will have tweed suits for gamekeepers and shooters skilfully tailored in Yorkshire," he added.

"Having been in the wool textile industry all my life, I never tire of hearing of the high esteem that Yorkshire clothing and textiles are held in. It's when people tell you it's the quality, that it's known for Yorkshire manufacturing."

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Mr Wall's whole working life has been in the textile industry, from a small family weaving business followed by large international manufacturers based in Bradford.

He bought Ratcatcher Tweed 12 years ago, and sold his tweed clothing at country and agricultural shows including Badminton Horse Trials and the Great Yorkshire Show.

Now, along with bespoke tweed wedding suits, there are garments such as heavyweight corduroy trousers and specialist made-to-measure outfits for gamekeeping and shooting. It's what he describes as "something a bit different, a niche that's not available on the high street," and for gamekeepers and shooting guests it's almost a uniform.

For Mr Wall, a day's work can involve driving the length and breadth of the UK to measure customers for their tweed suits, then returning to Yorkshire to cut fabrics and linings and deliver to his garment makers, all within a 20-mile radius of his headquarters in Baildon.

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Outfits tend to be a pair of breeks, or plus fours, which are more functional and comfortable for the country terrain and changeable British weather. These would be worn with a combination of shoot vest, jacket and waistcoat.

"The attire has evolved a little bit over the years, but it's still fairly traditional," said Mr Wall. "Tweed, if it's woven tightly, is fairly waterproof and being made from wool it breathes naturally."

As in many traditional industries, there are worries about a shortage of skilled labour coming through. To Mr Wall, he wonders about the next generation of cutters and machinists in the industry.

What binds the textile and garment trades though is a camaraderie and social interaction, he says, that cannot be equalled in a call centre or working from home.