The bay of plenty

Carbis Bay Hotel is really rather special. Unlike the fool’s gold so prevalent in this part of the world – a remnant of the region’s famous mining industry – this is the real thing.

It looks particularly impressive as it comes into view as we’re paddling back in an Hawaiian canoe after discovering the hidden coves of this beautiful area, just a mile or so from St Ives.

Our guide has been Ocean Sports Centre owner Glenn, a man with genuine insight and passion for the region’s craggy coastline and varied marine life, some of which we’ve spotted through the glass viewing panels on the base of our canoe today.

Glenn’s also entertained the children with talk of pirates, ancient shipwrecks and treasure islands and as we gently paddle back to Carbis Bay beach, the only Blue Flag beach to be privately owned by 
a hotel in the UK, I think there cannot be a more glorious destination in the country.

After reaching the sand, we say our goodbyes to Glenn – whose beachfront-based company also offers activities like kayaking and stand-up paddle board lessons. A two-minute climb up the hill takes us up to the hotel, which boasts fantastic views of the beach and brilliant blue sea beyond.

Lucky visitors have been enjoying this view since the hotel was built in 1894 by architect Silvanus Trevail. It was an inspiration for former guest Virginia Woolf’s 1927 novel To The Lighthouse and while the hotel suffered in the post-War period, largely due to lack of investment, it began a magnificent revival when it was taken over in the early 1980s and years of continuous development have created a fabulous fusion of old and new.

A £6m development plan for the next decade includes ideas for new leisure facilities that will make the resort a destination for all seasons. Our apartment’s set over two floors and features two double bedrooms, two plush marble bathrooms, a cosy living room and dining area and a well-presented kitchen with all mod cons.

Beyond the charming French windows, a balcony provides our own private outdoor area – it’s a real pleasure leaving the doors open in the evening and hearing the waves rhythmically crashing down below.

Apartments are ideal for young families like mine, with two children – Isabel, five, and two-year-old Charlie – going to bed early and waking up at the crack of dawn to make the most of the DVD player.

There’s also a kids’ club, a joy for parents and kids alike – Isabel and Charlie had a great time painting, getting mucky and dancing for an hour while I and my wife, Lynne, enjoyed a cold drink on the sun-kissed terrace.

While beach lovers may simply fancy a week down on the Carbis Bay sands, those after a bit more action are just around the corner from St Ives. It’s an easy drive, a pleasant journey by train and an even better walk by coastal path.

Fish and chips, cream teas, ice cream, quaint art and winding streets have helped make St Ives one of Cornwall’s most popular resorts, but you also can’t miss the opportunity to hit the open water for a journey to Seal Island with St Ives Boats, based just outside the town’s lifeboat station. Viewing the rugged coastline as the boat smashes over waves for three miles, before finally reaching Western Carracks, where dozens of seals play in the water or simply bask in the sun on the rocks, makes for a brilliant, memorable holiday experience.

Flambards theme park, a short drive away, is also great for a family day out. 
It houses a host of rides that are, with very few exceptions, suitable for 
children of all ages.

Our daredevil Isabel enjoyed them all, especially the Skyraker 001, which catapults you straight up into the air, drops, spins around, repeats for a few stomach-churning minutes before chucking you back down to Earth.

Charlie was also able to go on most rides, including a pretty speedy rollercoaster and log flume.

No trip to Cornwall would be complete without a day at the Eden Project, which has become one of the UK’s most celebrated attractions since it opened in 2001.

The attraction is famous for two vast domes – the Rainforest biome and Mediterranean biome – with acres and acres of gardens and The Core, an interactive learning zone that’s bound to wow the kids.

There are fun outdoor activities too, with a bit of den-building from recycled materials a pretty good way to spend an hour or so of the visit.

I’m not sure what Trevail would make of our ramshackle effort, but I’m a huge fan of his work.

Almost 125 years after he cut his 
finest gem on Cornwall’s coast, the Carbis Bay Hotel remains a masterpiece.

Getting there

Carbis Bay’s self-catering accommodation includes a range of luxury apartments, traditional granite-built cottages, contemporary beach houses, comfortable bungalows and other completely unique properties.

Prices start from £655 for seven nights. Shorter stays and mini breaks are also available on request.

For further information and the latest special offers, call 01736 795311 or visit www.carbisbayhotel.co.uk