Rocky mountain high

Slowly we trudge through the thick snow, every single step a struggle. During 
the final push to the 
summit of Kilimanjaro, and after nearly four days of walking, I feel pain 
every time I lift a leg.

Our head guide Ema, who took Cheryl Cole, Gary Barlow and a host of other celebrities up Kilimanjaro for Sport Relief in 2009, had told us before setting off that the first three days of the climb would be “like walking in the Lake District”, and it would only be the fourth day, summit day, that would be hard.

And we were reassured that if Chris Moyles had got to the top, we were all more than capable.

Right now, that’s little consolation.

Rising 5,895m above sea level, Kilimanjaro has deservedly earned its name as the “roof of Africa”, being the highest mountain on the continent.

One of the most accessible high summits in the world, this dormant volcano in Tanzania attracts intrepid explorers, fundraising celebrities and tourists in search of a challenge.

Since Hans Meyer became the first European to top the summit in 1889, the number of climbers has steadily grown: according to the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation, more than 40,000 people attempt the climb each year, but between 50 and 75 per cent don’t make it to the top.

There are several trails open to visitors, but I’d chosen to take the less crowded Rongai Route. Approaching Kilimanjaro from the north, it passes through areas of untouched wilderness. With a gentle gradient and short daily stages, it’s described as the “easiest” of all the routes – but that doesn’t mean it’s any less arduous.

Our group, organised through adventure tour company Exodus, spent the first night at Kia Lodge, a short drive from Kilimanjaro Airport.

We had ample time to relax by the pool, with its views of vast African plains and mountains in the distance. Unfortunately our view of Kilimanjaro was obscured by clouds, perhaps for the best, so we were not too shocked by how high it looked.

During a series of briefings, our guide Ema tells us exactly what to expect from each part of the journey. We go through our kit, making sure we have everything we need, and arranging the hiring of anything we don’t have.

After two days of rest, we set off for our first day of trekking.

As we’d been promised, the first stage is fairly straightforward.

It’s essential at high altitude to climb at a very slow and steady pace. One of our five guides sets the pace for us each day, walking in front of the group and shouting “pole, pole” if anyone starts walking too quickly.

We’re almost embarrassed to see our porters bolt past, carrying our bags and camping equipment – all on their heads.

More acclimatised to the altitude, they dash up the mountainside ahead of us, so that when we arrive at camp each evening, all our tents are already pitched, and our dinner is simmering away.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner – the food does not stop coming. We’re told we need to eat much more than normal, to ensure our energy levels stay high.

We also have to drink plenty of fluids – five litres a day. The porters fill our bottles with water from the streams, which they boil and treat to ensure it’s safe.

Our trip has an added interesting dynamic, in the fact that one of our party is climbing the mountain with a 14kg life-size cuddly tiger strapped to his back.

Wildlife photographer Paul Goldstein is carrying out his Worth More Alive III challenge, raising money for charity by running two marathons and climbing Kilimanjaro in eight days, all while carrying the tiger.

Because of this, we only have five days to tackle Kilimanjaro, while other expeditions take a minimum of six (and the Sport Relief group took eight).

As Ema had promised, the first three days of the climb really are nothing to worry about, and could be done by anyone used to hill walking. (The oldest member of our group is 70, and she manages it easily).

It was only day four, ascent day, when you climb from 4,750m to the summit at 5,895m, setting off at midnight in order to be able to get up there and down again in one go, that’s really tough.

But the beauty of Kilimanjaro is that no technical climbing skills are necessary. From the farmland and lush rainforest at the bottom, to the barren moon-like wasteland nearing the top, the climb also offers amazing scenery as you go.

Our guides tell us that once we’re at the summit, the air would be so thin that we’d not want to, nor would it be safe to, hang around there, save for taking a few essential pictures of ourselves in front of the famous sign.

Sadly for us, the snow is coming down so heavily that we can’t see more than a few metres in front of us at a time. We’re also warned that we’d not feel a sense of achievement immediately, due to the exhaustion we’d be experiencing.

I certainly feel this is the case, and it’s not until the following morning, as the porters pack up our camp for the last time and we say our goodbyes, that the enormity of what we’ve accomplished hits me.

Yes, it would have been nice to reach the summit on a clear day, but the knowledge alone that I’d actually made it to the top was enough. The journey was like nothing I’d ever experienced before, and the memories – good, bad and painful – will stay with me forever.

Getting there

Jennifer Cockerell was a guest of Exodus, travelling with their 10-day Kilimanjaro Climb-Rongai Route tour. Prices start at £1,989 per person including flights. The next departure dates are: November 3-0, December 7, 14, 21 & 22. To book call 0845 863 9601 or visit www.exodus.co.uk

Although possible to climb all year round, the best times are when it is dry and warm in January, February and September. You will need to take malaria tablets in Tanzania, so visit your GP well in advance.

Paul Goldstein was raising money for and awareness about the plight of the endangered Bengal tiger. You can still donate money to the cause by visiting www.justgiving.com/worthmorealive3