Swedish delight

Being a seasoned skier, I normally head for the French or Swiss Alps in winter. Iconic peaks, world-class pistes and a lively apres ski atmosphere keep me coming back year after year.

But eager to try something different, I agreed to pack my salopettes and head to Scandinavia.

Though famous for flat-pack furniture, blonde-haired beauties, ABBA and Stieg Larsson crime novels, Sweden is not so well-known as a ski destination. The northern region– often referred to as the Swedish Alps – has 13 major resorts, mostly clustered around its central-western border with Norway.

I flew into Sweden’s Ostersund airport to spend three nights in Are (pronounced or-a).

Located in Jamtland, Sweden’s second largest province, Are is Scandinavia’s main mountain city. The ski area stretches across six main resorts from Duved in the west to Are Bjornen in the east, and the Alpine World Championships were held here in 2007. A cluster of colourful wooden buildings makes the area look like a large village, while the vast lake Aresjon and the smooth-topped Areskutan mountain provide a scenic backdrop.

I checked into the large ski-in ski-out Tott Hotell, located at the bottom of the Tottliften lift, servicing several red and blue runs. Clean lines, glossy surfaces and bright colours characterise the hotel lobby, while other communal areas are more traditional in style. Vintage skis, beaten-up leather sofas and reindeer-skin throws made the place feel distinctly Scandinavian.

If my days were to be spent hurtling down mountains, my evenings would be enjoyed in the lounge bar, hot tubs, sauna and spa. My spacious, en-suite room featured basic cooking facilities, mini bar and a view of the lake.

The most noticeable difference skiing here compared to France or Switzerland is the terrain. Similar to the Scottish Cairngorms, the black, tree-covered, Neolithic-looking mounds are a sharp contrast to the jagged peaks which reach as far as the eye can see in the southern European Alps. The slopes are also much quieter and lift queues were non-existent.

The pistes had certainly exceeded my expectations, but would the food and drink be equally as impressive?

Veering off the piste at lunchtime, I dined at Buustamons restaurant, halfway up Areskutan, followed by an aquavit tasting session in the cellar at the adjoining Buustamons Distillery.

The boutique production house is one of the smallest legal distilleries in Sweden. Gently warmed by the locally sourced, herb-seasoned spirits, I returned to the pistes until sundown.

That evening, keen to try some traditional Swedish food, I dined at former farmstead Hotell Karolinen at Taljstenskrogen. Karolinen offers a pick-up from your hotel by snowmobile or dog sled, but I made the short journey along the lake by car. Inside the cosy, rustic chalet, we were served a dish similar to fondue. As elk and beef steaks sizzled on hot stones, I sipped wine and chatted to new-found friends. Afterwards, we took a soak in a wood-fired hot tub.

What really sets Are apart from other ski destinations is the variety of other activities. The scenery is magical and natural wonders provide ample entertainment. I was lucky enough to see the aurora borealis (northern lights), which appeared as a strange beam stemming from the horizon into the dusky sky.

I also explored the Tannforsen woods, home to the largest lake waterfall in Sweden. After a treacherous downhill trek – made dangerous by wearing the wrong footwear – I reached the base. At only 38m high, it’s certainly not Niagara Falls, but the sight was no less dramatic. Frozen in action, the once-gushing water looked like drops of hardened candlewax.

Each year a huge igloo is built next to the waterfall, along with ice sculptures, a bar and bedrooms to overnight in. There’s also a cave with more ice formations – worth a visit once you’ve donned a hard hat as protection from falling icicles.

Even more adventurous is Are’s zip-lining attraction, which at 900m in total, split in four sections, is the largest in Europe. Suspended up to 60m above ground, the wires pass over treetops, streams and skiers below. Reaching speeds up to 70kph, zooming along the wire was a real adrenalin rush. But the real highlight was dog-sledding.

When we arrived at Are Sleddog Adventures, Alaskan husky dogs were being harnessed to sleds. The initial surge was frightening, as we bumped up and down through the forest. We clung on as we rounded tight bends.

Much more than a ski trip, my visit to Are had been a real winter adventure.

Getting there

Tori Mayo was a guest of Visit Are, Sweden and Neilson Holidays who offer seven nights’ at the 3-star Are Fjallby Apartments in Are Village from £379pp.

Price includes return flights from London Heathrow, return resort transfers and accommodation. Based on a January 20, 2013 departure.

For more info or to book, visit www.neilson.co.uk or call 0845 070 3460.

For more information on ski holidays to Are, Sweden visit www.skistar.com