Vive la différence

The bull turned its head menacingly slowly, and glared at us, standing rather nervously 50 yards behind him on the narrow coastal path. We had walked for more than an hour to reach an historic watchtower – but the impressively-horned beast might yet stop us from getting there.

Luckily, a group of Germans came striding purposefully past all three of us. Defeated, our bull ambled off through the heavy scrub towards the sea. The common sight of cows wandering on beaches is one of the things which make the island of Corsica (La Corse) a little special.

Our base, in the north, was the village of Patrimonio. With panoramic views to the coast, this quiet hillside village has grown up around a 16th-century church, an impressive building which dominates the area.

In the heart of Corsica’s premier wine region, Patrimonio is noted for its many “caves” – where you often find free wine tastings. Sweet Muscat dessert wine, for which the area is justifiably renowned, is gorgeous, but white and rose wines slip down pretty smoothly, too.

Patrimonio also has an annual guitar festival in a small amphitheatre not far from the church. Near here, too, is an example of a “menhir” – a rather spooky ancient stone figure, of which there are many on the island.

Our spacious, well-equipped villa had a pool, outside kitchen, stone-built barbecue, petanque court, ping-pong table and sun deck. With the sun beating down relentlessly, and the calm of this sleepy little village interrupted only rarely, it was all too tempting to lie back and do absolutely nothing.

But the hire car was ready and waiting – indeed, just about essential, given the state of public transport – and there was much to see in the surrounding area. Barely 10 minutes’ drive from Patrimonio is the delightful little port of St Florent, with its citadel and crumbling buildings clustered around a large marina.

The Italian influence is evident in the pizzas and pastas, and cheese fans relish the “brocciu” – a ewe’s cheese often mixed with herbs in pasta dishes. Wild boar is on many a menu, and with so many ports, fish and seafood is a must. Just beyond the marina is a beach, though bathers can be deterred by brown seaweed which sometimes clogs the water.

Plage de la Roya, a little further along, is not as inviting as some spots further down the coast, but not bad, nonetheless.

From St Florent, boats regularly ferry visitors to beaches accessible only by sea. For the more energetic, a hike along the coastal path through the “maquis” – the generic name given to the scrubland which dominates the landscape here – is a bracing challenge.

The maquis, in full splendour in the spring and summer months, played a key part in Second World War when local resistance fighters used it to evade detection from the Italian Gestapo. The partisan movement was known as ‘Le Maquis’.

Along the coastal path, some seven kilometres from St Florent, is the Tour de Mortella watchtower. This structure was originally built to counter piracy; it later fell into French hands and in the late 1700s was bombarded by the British forces.

Only half of it now remains, but this is one of many “Martello” towers on Corsica’s coastline, later to be replicated around the south coast of England and Ireland. A drive here from St Florent took in winding mountain roads with some spectacular views of the two snow-capped peaks of Mount Cinto and of rugged coastline, and on through the wild area known as the Desert Des Agriates.

Along this coast are the glorious beaches of resorts such as Ile Rousse, sometimes called “the St Tropez of Corsica”, and Calvi, which tourists adore.

A bustling little resort overlooked by a citadel, Calvi is a living, working “haute ville” or upper town built on a promontory, with views across the Ligurian Sea.

Calvi is a magnet for sunseekers, with magnificent beaches of fine white sand. The snag is that trendy beachside bars and restaurants own some of the best sections of beach, leaving those who don’t hire a sunbed squashed into the areas in between, or pushed along the bay.

Calvi is a possible birthplace of Christopher Columbus, discoverer of the New World. But a stronger link to history is the formidable Napoleon Bonaparte, born in Ajaccio, the town which he made the island’s capital.

Our holiday did not take us as far down the west coast as Ajaccio, however, because we had so much to explore in the north. Long journeys, anyway, require nerves of steel as locals love to cut corners off winding roads.

A drive around Cap Corse, on the northern tip of the island, took us to Nonza, a village perched high on the cape, and possibly the spot where Saint Julia, patron saint of Corsica, was martyred in the 15th century.

As you climb the steps to another Genoese watchtower through the higgledy-piggledy houses and narrow alleyways, it’s easy to see how resistance lasted so long in this area. From the tower at Nonza there are more spectacular coastal views, and a curious grey beach, evidence of the pollution from an asbestos mine years ago, and a natural canvas for tourists who sign their names in the sand.

Further along the coast is Pino, a tiny village, with a couple of welcome bars under the shade of trees, and, as ever, a petanque court. Here it is worth wending your way down the cliff to the 15th century Franciscan convent.

From Pino, either continue the Cap Corse round-route, or cross the mountainous hinterland via Luri to reach Santa Severa, and pick up the road down the east coast to Bastia. This coast is less dramatic than its western counterpart, but packed with delightful fishing ports.

Finally, we arrived at Bastia itself: home to just under 40,000, a quarter of the island’s population and once the island’s capital before Napoleon intervened. This no-frills, hard-working city is a jarring contrast to the soothing tranquillity of the villages and ports we had passed., but Bastia’s rugged authenticity is part of its charm.

GETTING THERE

* Richard Woodward was a guest of VFB/Travelzest, which offer seven-night self-catering stays on Corsica, departing Manchester, from £495, ncluding return flights and car hire.

* Savings of up to 50 per cent available on selected departure dates and free car hire is offered on selected villas – please call VFB Holidays for the latest deals.

* Travelzest reservations: 0800 171 2160 and www.travelzest.com